tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-82781178089619399732024-03-19T10:33:14.072+00:00JohnohUK's RamblingsJohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.comBlogger36125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8278117808961939973.post-56832336662841914632019-01-01T20:23:00.000+00:002019-01-29T13:30:23.493+00:00Xdeep Stealth 2.0 canister holder on weight beltWhere do you put your lighting canister when using the Xdeep Stealth sidemount wing?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYCzB7OMeAlhl63KbLoHUPASd14pOvtfYyB-mhBvZHyh04EWq37tuposyVe9gKdlXWX3-s0r2GocOc4rdMG_PskaEMehbLH__0LYoUUyjc3ooSHU21vUKgfwVLJPWItuvbclXOMvO24zw/s1600/20181230_175300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYCzB7OMeAlhl63KbLoHUPASd14pOvtfYyB-mhBvZHyh04EWq37tuposyVe9gKdlXWX3-s0r2GocOc4rdMG_PskaEMehbLH__0LYoUUyjc3ooSHU21vUKgfwVLJPWItuvbclXOMvO24zw/s320/20181230_175300.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
Starting out, I mounted my light for me canister like this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR9tKlgYFVbmVJSosTBkGwe9W1IwjA8x6A2284PSsQ6fUjHsF2TnVqBkQoJZvPNpDM-WYokkVjgh88iEb8fNjMpZxnOqrZVazP61V9sya5lZWeNwSAkXL6TPQjc2rweQRwnzXRNbY-E1o/s1600/20181021_095744.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR9tKlgYFVbmVJSosTBkGwe9W1IwjA8x6A2284PSsQ6fUjHsF2TnVqBkQoJZvPNpDM-WYokkVjgh88iEb8fNjMpZxnOqrZVazP61V9sya5lZWeNwSAkXL6TPQjc2rweQRwnzXRNbY-E1o/s320/20181021_095744.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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It was a bit of lash-up with some bungee through the last D-ring webbing loop.<br />
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I wasn't satisfied with the mounting as it was a long way from my hand and hence the cable was stretched at an angle. I did have the Xdeep adaptor plate but with the butt plate it didn't look like it would work, hence my solution.<br />
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So looking for another solution I saw that a few folks had rigged them behind the wing on the weight belt, so when I saw the following bit of kit, it gave me the idea for my set-up.<br />
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<a href="https://dluxedivegear.de/produkt/argon-akku-klammer-fuer-xdeep/?fbclid=IwAR30NSd5HPdoFaJm7E3LpJr0r2fiBKKypqeF4OpP42SnvSACRso5gYdFaOA" target="_blank">https://dluxedivegear.de/produkt/argon-akku-klammer-fuer-xdeep/?fbclid=IwAR30NSd5HPdoFaJm7E3LpJr0r2fiBKKypqeF4OpP42SnvSACRso5gYdFaOA</a><br />
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I would have bought these but after shipping and buying a couple it sort of didn't make sense, plus I actually had a 25mm bar of aluminium in the garage which is the exact width to fit between the webbing slots on the weight belt!<br />
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Now, I can't create anything like Sump UK, so this is a complete DIY/Bodge effort using the most basic of tools, manual bending and using a hammer!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJEBeklcapomL59aK0z2pXtQ_-2JZoVcrB202einBrrKIyAR4b8wCmkORa7fj09bwWgAULGiwzXaG0WRvTMUSRYDLXfAY3W5JNdOBj8WZxA28KWSmFKaHI8keYgQtI7nerHnNChOgFzDM/s1600/20181230_174054.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJEBeklcapomL59aK0z2pXtQ_-2JZoVcrB202einBrrKIyAR4b8wCmkORa7fj09bwWgAULGiwzXaG0WRvTMUSRYDLXfAY3W5JNdOBj8WZxA28KWSmFKaHI8keYgQtI7nerHnNChOgFzDM/s320/20181230_174054.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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First off the aluminium bar was 25mm * 2mm and solid in 1m length off ebay for £1.99, you can make three single sided adaptors out of 1 length:.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHazkT9P9IZzTeOarSEx-ooup-ocnU1C4z5jbIsbePwXyNz9uNm-BYI0I8dAqB-gAPdmp81XTJ2oTBBn99-AYlfmWaHrfiDRgQVoxHOdaAaFlXxDP-Yg6ZZqrv-lwYdP72IIuAErGNFpM/s1600/20181230_174343.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHazkT9P9IZzTeOarSEx-ooup-ocnU1C4z5jbIsbePwXyNz9uNm-BYI0I8dAqB-gAPdmp81XTJ2oTBBn99-AYlfmWaHrfiDRgQVoxHOdaAaFlXxDP-Yg6ZZqrv-lwYdP72IIuAErGNFpM/s320/20181230_174343.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The key to making life easy and getting some level of accuracy is to make a cardboard template to get the angles right and mark up the bending points. Cut a cardboard strip the same width as the ali plate and work out how you want the metal to form, I went for a 90 degree angle instead of moulding it round the canister because the diameters could be different.</div>
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Here is template and angle guide to match...it sort of matches the depth of the weight pockets.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQFGTJWTgAAuD8srH6eEAPNvR6C-BwA9VZBoSNS1v9XjcgCyjDNelUafdRG-JV0SWC75ceMinvRCSOcT5jhYZsO-5znN4KzQpXuhE70Thd4F2w2r1OwPxH_3ohyphenhyphenpHkXA5BlfabnvnUvzk/s1600/20190101_192444.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQFGTJWTgAAuD8srH6eEAPNvR6C-BwA9VZBoSNS1v9XjcgCyjDNelUafdRG-JV0SWC75ceMinvRCSOcT5jhYZsO-5znN4KzQpXuhE70Thd4F2w2r1OwPxH_3ohyphenhyphenpHkXA5BlfabnvnUvzk/s320/20190101_192444.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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Here are some pictures of the construction and mounting:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxpd2dOBbYkJED_yw8OncUoo6HuWkzh0CkXLHGPd9KDIoYpVV8YNrDLQHvF-3pzv6742Q5K_ZEHFXBdK3N4wpLobCAP8ZGnWbQsOtgdrTmrWLwZAmaeFzzI8ia29AQQE64ALcYVK46VdI/s1600/20181230_170406.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxpd2dOBbYkJED_yw8OncUoo6HuWkzh0CkXLHGPd9KDIoYpVV8YNrDLQHvF-3pzv6742Q5K_ZEHFXBdK3N4wpLobCAP8ZGnWbQsOtgdrTmrWLwZAmaeFzzI8ia29AQQE64ALcYVK46VdI/s320/20181230_170406.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I used the vice of the bench to hold the strip when bending it, when the angle was tighter that 90 degrees, I had to just manual bend it with the pliers.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnE8BKG4gtPuGb9_md3IO4WjIGxcWP0EgKx4IUQRarNQQ08eqDolBkgWqKo8ofm9TjHMQWXj0K8OdGs6PtNZ-BtivF1DGVVV7R7T_46BhyHE5i0P4hfVmnjMYeIQx_7DDga3Zur2ZVjGM/s1600/20181230_170415.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnE8BKG4gtPuGb9_md3IO4WjIGxcWP0EgKx4IUQRarNQQ08eqDolBkgWqKo8ofm9TjHMQWXj0K8OdGs6PtNZ-BtivF1DGVVV7R7T_46BhyHE5i0P4hfVmnjMYeIQx_7DDga3Zur2ZVjGM/s320/20181230_170415.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoEwfeyHcGwa49eN3HpCfIjhhNQWa9_zMuj049G2vDCdatlSyLlr6ouUdSjszD2xE7NIKdhyFtzYQGO0gCd-4j5GzC9YngGFUXz7Qv1XBedj9ir9DsUS4In8vSPjOFkq3RJ1uvCARLUdc/s1600/20181230_174054.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoEwfeyHcGwa49eN3HpCfIjhhNQWa9_zMuj049G2vDCdatlSyLlr6ouUdSjszD2xE7NIKdhyFtzYQGO0gCd-4j5GzC9YngGFUXz7Qv1XBedj9ir9DsUS4In8vSPjOFkq3RJ1uvCARLUdc/s320/20181230_174054.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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Add Some bike inner tube:-</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdV-umj2mbAHhaMGo2aVqeKupkCqJ_a0gV8T5vozRnVvCC3Db-KZN-hOBwxg6yzzGiDrM7rTlUSD8lUZsRyYJSXha13kYaOx54_AFweXCYedPOH4wO3GNkB4TuF-tD-sFntB5-pVZf6_g/s1600/20181230_174745.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdV-umj2mbAHhaMGo2aVqeKupkCqJ_a0gV8T5vozRnVvCC3Db-KZN-hOBwxg6yzzGiDrM7rTlUSD8lUZsRyYJSXha13kYaOx54_AFweXCYedPOH4wO3GNkB4TuF-tD-sFntB5-pVZf6_g/s320/20181230_174745.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Add a bungee loop:-</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Uv-m9brue9YsmXW2yZ0_1k0NHdAjXciYp-Us2nXZvd-03F6MzHn4OHS48mqLDGyqNH7CL0xo7_BWdRT30SA3PjREH8Zf3LooQ2qacD93eQvkWV6ylFoEjJ-nS3e_O81ub65bhoP8uO0/s1600/20181230_174804.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Uv-m9brue9YsmXW2yZ0_1k0NHdAjXciYp-Us2nXZvd-03F6MzHn4OHS48mqLDGyqNH7CL0xo7_BWdRT30SA3PjREH8Zf3LooQ2qacD93eQvkWV6ylFoEjJ-nS3e_O81ub65bhoP8uO0/s320/20181230_174804.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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Slide it through under the central webbing, you will have to pull the webbing to the left to allow the clip to pass over. Use a screw driver to gain some leverage if need be.</div>
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I still need to file the exposed ends down so as not to rub on my dry suit and will probably switch the canister to the right-hand side.</div>
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<br />JohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8278117808961939973.post-12355881927367006452017-01-27T20:59:00.002+00:002017-07-11T23:26:12.501+01:00Leak Detector for Underwater CameraI've an underwater camera which doesn't have a vacuum system or leak detector and this scares the life out of me, especially when taking such expensive camera equipment underwater! So I had some bits lying around that could make a useful leak detector.<br />
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I've had a leak on a camera enclosure and strobe before and the only time you notice its flooded is when you go to use it and you see the water sloshing around inside! I'm not sure a detector is going to help that much but it's worth a try. </div>
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Basically its an Arduino Pro Mini clone monitoring once a second, the water sensor via the ADC. When the sensor reports the presence of water, by returning a non-zero value, the audible alarm goes off and the on-board green LED starts to flash. The audible alert is quite loud and can be heard from outside the enclosure. Power is supplied by two 2032 cells in series i.e. 6v.</div>
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The code is written using a low power library which means it consumes virtually no power between the 1 second polling activity. I can't read the power consumption on my meter as its so low, so worst case its 10mA, so with two 2032 cells I think that provides ~600mAh so 60 hours? As there is a switch on the battery container, you can switch it off when not in use. </div>
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<div>
The Arduino Pro Mini clone is programmed from the standard Arduino tool with the FTDI USB programmer but you could get a different board with built in USB interface like a Leonardo/Trinket/Lilypad but the Pro Minis are so cheap.</div>
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Components:</div>
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<div>
Moisture Detector ( search ebay for "water detector arduino")</div>
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Passive Electronic Piezo Buzzer /Sounder 1-13V </div>
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Pro Mini Atmega328P Board 5V 16M ( look for cheapest 5v you can find)</div>
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6V Button Coin Cell Battery Holder Case Box With On-Off Switch CR2032</div>
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Circuit:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCWO9bHO-n55ih9Ay3__mY6OrBjysUg_iW47fpnAtlctgV-QRbHDlcn6KWdp9cGvul62h9zGtjDwPxzEmxq7WpPkbfgtjmljv-rZ3WxQkcDZh5DJdN35ZUG7V8TF5PEEftrbojsAyOUHA/s1600/WaterSensor+v1s.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="339" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCWO9bHO-n55ih9Ay3__mY6OrBjysUg_iW47fpnAtlctgV-QRbHDlcn6KWdp9cGvul62h9zGtjDwPxzEmxq7WpPkbfgtjmljv-rZ3WxQkcDZh5DJdN35ZUG7V8TF5PEEftrbojsAyOUHA/s640/WaterSensor+v1s.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Code:</div>
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#include "LowPower.h"</div>
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int led = 13;</div>
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const int buzzerPin = 13;</div>
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// watch Board type, older ones are 5v,168 newer V2 ones are 5v,368</div>
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void setup() {</div>
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// initialize serial communication at 9600 bits per second:</div>
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Serial.begin(9600);</div>
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pinMode(led, OUTPUT); </div>
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digitalWrite(led, LOW); </div>
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pinMode(buzzerPin, OUTPUT);</div>
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}</div>
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void loop() {</div>
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// read the input on analog pin 0:</div>
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LowPower.powerDown(SLEEP_1S, ADC_OFF, BOD_OFF); //Sleep 1 second</div>
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//**************************************************************************************//</div>
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// Water Sensor Alarm</div>
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int sensorValue = analogRead(A0); </div>
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//Serial.println(sensorValue); // Put this back in for debugging but remember to remove the lowpower call otherwise it won't work.</div>
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if (sensorValue > 6)</div>
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{ </div>
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digitalWrite(led, HIGH); // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level)</div>
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</div>
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while (1) //Sound Alarm</div>
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{</div>
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digitalWrite(led, HIGH);</div>
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tone ( buzzerPin , 523 , 200);</div>
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delay(200);</div>
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digitalWrite(led, LOW);</div>
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delay(200);</div>
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}</div>
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}else // else for test only</div>
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{</div>
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digitalWrite(led, LOW); // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW</div>
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}</div>
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}</div>
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Here is the finished item:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJDNGhH3ZF4YxC6HiAgCUcQG-wp6Hd6hvs7FRRVVHClRmFjNoMXf2p7Oqv4sKatz6cjKypdH22iKQY38bnb-QoGuMyOvseceT_6myZBqNJyCMaCI1CcviAVOjvj5DPNo1YpPtfllauNAc/s1600/20170127_174936.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJDNGhH3ZF4YxC6HiAgCUcQG-wp6Hd6hvs7FRRVVHClRmFjNoMXf2p7Oqv4sKatz6cjKypdH22iKQY38bnb-QoGuMyOvseceT_6myZBqNJyCMaCI1CcviAVOjvj5DPNo1YpPtfllauNAc/s640/20170127_174936.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The camera enclosure doesn't have a great deal of space inside so the next challenge is to fit it all in!</div>
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The CPU is really under utilised but going forward, it will start to take on more responsibilities, such as fire the strobes and monitoring pressure. Watch this space.</div>
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JohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8278117808961939973.post-26922994861631273102015-08-03T15:42:00.001+01:002015-08-04T08:36:54.675+01:00Video Light for stillsI tried using one of my video lights as a light for my stills camera. I mounted it like so:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnmkql3E3EHMxNhfRVfx7sobCA6AlIK827EYa81143f2DhwIHs3L8wruIR1Vdofpm7d-jXBfNAKnzFdyiT6NZ72cBak_9sKwSmSg8FCCyHh7cg5r1kkjW2ywVxQbLXK8cEBZrO2lkCN44/s1600/20150803_141624.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnmkql3E3EHMxNhfRVfx7sobCA6AlIK827EYa81143f2DhwIHs3L8wruIR1Vdofpm7d-jXBfNAKnzFdyiT6NZ72cBak_9sKwSmSg8FCCyHh7cg5r1kkjW2ywVxQbLXK8cEBZrO2lkCN44/s320/20150803_141624.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB-DdjaPPdBfmpapJlNwkukAA5_0XGNfj9fQrMteHpVWY2_kCawWV91gJtPcQIOEZqyDF7FQ3OOD3mQbblqf6aMBd_v6-KWL9wVgzKF0-A-jXgcfLmS2xVHatsSlApDMJizXh88TxVuVA/s1600/20150803_141607.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB-DdjaPPdBfmpapJlNwkukAA5_0XGNfj9fQrMteHpVWY2_kCawWV91gJtPcQIOEZqyDF7FQ3OOD3mQbblqf6aMBd_v6-KWL9wVgzKF0-A-jXgcfLmS2xVHatsSlApDMJizXh88TxVuVA/s320/20150803_141607.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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The articulated arm used to have a strobe on it but it flooded hence the need for some light!</div>
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Here are some examples of the picture, mostly in the 20-30m range, vis was pretty good at 5-10m, across multiple dives.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfI2l-bXcZdsoJ7yTfJxL0FhxJBow732n4uihJZ9rm5qclQIbq1tQFWLPABuakHX1Qjq4rvRa1GkkeR4-LGy_a249CIHzSBQSwYO8hjSeH9uJGE_60O1HyoeghNkvjUngGcUuifR89Ydk/s1600/IMG_5690.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfI2l-bXcZdsoJ7yTfJxL0FhxJBow732n4uihJZ9rm5qclQIbq1tQFWLPABuakHX1Qjq4rvRa1GkkeR4-LGy_a249CIHzSBQSwYO8hjSeH9uJGE_60O1HyoeghNkvjUngGcUuifR89Ydk/s320/IMG_5690.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Crab was out in the open so no rocks to obscure the light. No particulates in the water either or very little, treated it like a strobe where you want as little of the beam in front of the lense.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNH_BoM9oOD2_KFg2WQ-rv2GOR6ohMpBl1kqdHzFrk_TU16AGQw0nZblRatHNWs2qUWjVlIUO5vmaBO2v-Pc4Tgv2i711aAHLD5D6KnT5OyNTtTrbP0FtQRdtOwJqn_3U8muYYgOpcRTM/s1600/IMG_5661.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNH_BoM9oOD2_KFg2WQ-rv2GOR6ohMpBl1kqdHzFrk_TU16AGQw0nZblRatHNWs2qUWjVlIUO5vmaBO2v-Pc4Tgv2i711aAHLD5D6KnT5OyNTtTrbP0FtQRdtOwJqn_3U8muYYgOpcRTM/s320/IMG_5661.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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White balance incorrectly set for the video light, suspect I had used it topside and not corrected to use the video light. I've dedicated a button on the Canon s95 to reset white balance, just do it before taking a series of shots.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpfXaq1qRCHfbzHalKBwHpdG_7oQt09cBtIWdLQE1ym507bX3UZ7wQwq0P4GllYlH8vfebOUzOvNJtx4Fn0cfjv6m4WQItlsc292ZsvetboFo1pYnasBFjOGxI2d1JfNARoeP7aPFQysc/s1600/IMG_5629.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpfXaq1qRCHfbzHalKBwHpdG_7oQt09cBtIWdLQE1ym507bX3UZ7wQwq0P4GllYlH8vfebOUzOvNJtx4Fn0cfjv6m4WQItlsc292ZsvetboFo1pYnasBFjOGxI2d1JfNARoeP7aPFQysc/s320/IMG_5629.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Positioning of video light on arm all important.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE2-0NXG5T-kqiDsiJ6Wg18-vbVV1AkDO-UwE-FMKKWwwbBtvvd7ye49UOOnEiOIA01Ghyag1Ju9ceLOMG03KCm8_JvidPjXHbYPgTHjvR2q1b23AB8hyLhuUdExpJpAtiNG9ePeq8GA0/s1600/IMG_5734.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE2-0NXG5T-kqiDsiJ6Wg18-vbVV1AkDO-UwE-FMKKWwwbBtvvd7ye49UOOnEiOIA01Ghyag1Ju9ceLOMG03KCm8_JvidPjXHbYPgTHjvR2q1b23AB8hyLhuUdExpJpAtiNG9ePeq8GA0/s320/IMG_5734.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Love these little fellas... nice and in focus with the light. These are old ropes on an LST tank landing ship.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlaPDsSBlpzr2KOrtIApL2z64PFUCw9fNtIhitNt1TbSTl2Vc68mAJMchgOmDkxuHtkvu_dMkZM1mbIhow2jx3xoyPWTLf2MRXsfqiaj7Kx19D96y6tzKjKscuaNJbtIkWnrCrnQgW10Y/s1600/IMG_5771.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlaPDsSBlpzr2KOrtIApL2z64PFUCw9fNtIhitNt1TbSTl2Vc68mAJMchgOmDkxuHtkvu_dMkZM1mbIhow2jx3xoyPWTLf2MRXsfqiaj7Kx19D96y6tzKjKscuaNJbtIkWnrCrnQgW10Y/s320/IMG_5771.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Again, I think I was shooting ambient light, the vis was that good at 25m! But switching to using the video light you get the colour temperature differences..</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeTVYarQxq-JcEjguKj3NNbgmXwr81fRB3DUadQmqHyuQ73rAG3KMcGkrnxEjaWIKikbpTCbfWdaAYyEhoF_lphtceBYtLEONEHgjB5DcN_MYYMkJ42sJ2dhYvfA5tuckbC-SWCu0TKzE/s1600/IMG_5796.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeTVYarQxq-JcEjguKj3NNbgmXwr81fRB3DUadQmqHyuQ73rAG3KMcGkrnxEjaWIKikbpTCbfWdaAYyEhoF_lphtceBYtLEONEHgjB5DcN_MYYMkJ42sJ2dhYvfA5tuckbC-SWCu0TKzE/s320/IMG_5796.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Capstan on the Susan B. Anthony troop ship, stern. This was taken about 1m away and you can just see the light affecting the colour of the fried egg anemones. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiJgyX1-tANLIe5T1A24Q70A5vxHzmBZWwSxXH-I_dzX_jgYp3MfoPZmZl7XyeyOb-3wCfweHNLyJa35-khMhKYk882_QXco195marsU2sLLBKXefaeIfz1TQdQgMMiiss_igKSZy9jM4/s1600/IMG_5607.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiJgyX1-tANLIe5T1A24Q70A5vxHzmBZWwSxXH-I_dzX_jgYp3MfoPZmZl7XyeyOb-3wCfweHNLyJa35-khMhKYk882_QXco195marsU2sLLBKXefaeIfz1TQdQgMMiiss_igKSZy9jM4/s320/IMG_5607.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Starfish</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcE0ddte4Cbya50pNLsXazm1zclRdBgZRXRmbGEK07Gr7fDcSUmMDEBgr2bPth1Cc72UGnRtJr_D7vFWykF-eIDu-vbGtWYkJvhnKp8XX4hUBfY0yDX8_lLeuHFrW8G2b0cYKfQjtPi7o/s1600/IMG_5723.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcE0ddte4Cbya50pNLsXazm1zclRdBgZRXRmbGEK07Gr7fDcSUmMDEBgr2bPth1Cc72UGnRtJr_D7vFWykF-eIDu-vbGtWYkJvhnKp8XX4hUBfY0yDX8_lLeuHFrW8G2b0cYKfQjtPi7o/s320/IMG_5723.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Cone of light visible but its in-focus and adds context..</div>
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JohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8278117808961939973.post-82309302097988476542015-05-19T00:44:00.002+01:002015-09-12T19:00:02.390+01:00New double video light rig<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-IaVj_u12uuAhivTyyXRS8Hbd1HX2ckB4EyVigKTuOyH6ZAPeWTnE7tPT_O0diI0kDwC8ocpTENcXNZFXkHWxi9dTKRSdONZtnxc8SxlDFqyXX9n_P4BZOQeWm6JClNpjQSJU__WX-4g/s1600/20150518_115541.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-IaVj_u12uuAhivTyyXRS8Hbd1HX2ckB4EyVigKTuOyH6ZAPeWTnE7tPT_O0diI0kDwC8ocpTENcXNZFXkHWxi9dTKRSdONZtnxc8SxlDFqyXX9n_P4BZOQeWm6JClNpjQSJU__WX-4g/s320/20150518_115541.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZHWiUnm1MwpFGobkRBgnFr5-9qxqbJRZUe1_71P9chYypjE4svbGaA94igcSQFqd7UGtaAPFXwHebpamGvAuARWz-hzALqsR9WddXzsbDaNjYx4P7Zr9JsLGakpyzzTLm60xVMnie0Jo/s1600/20150518_115529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZHWiUnm1MwpFGobkRBgnFr5-9qxqbJRZUe1_71P9chYypjE4svbGaA94igcSQFqd7UGtaAPFXwHebpamGvAuARWz-hzALqsR9WddXzsbDaNjYx4P7Zr9JsLGakpyzzTLm60xVMnie0Jo/s320/20150518_115529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibJNO4sUXl6NfUhDd_ZS7Nk0MASKmzlj6pfMx6eQlKgN74LsT0WF5yImpTiuSqQ0oCb5EYeNt4ylg06KFx95-YZZ8yeqGTu7pO9HDn5x_BGeCzBzrYXrKqOcRt5YsSl91ZbuRPPu8jhGs/s1600/20150518_115519.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibJNO4sUXl6NfUhDd_ZS7Nk0MASKmzlj6pfMx6eQlKgN74LsT0WF5yImpTiuSqQ0oCb5EYeNt4ylg06KFx95-YZZ8yeqGTu7pO9HDn5x_BGeCzBzrYXrKqOcRt5YsSl91ZbuRPPu8jhGs/s320/20150518_115519.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Trying something new for a video light right. When the lights are bolted onto the side of the Goodman handle I find the backscatter to be quite noticable, so this new rig is to push the lights further away from the camera and at an angle to reduce it... Its experimental at this stage... but here goes...<br />
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Ingredients:<br />
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Loc-Line Coolant Hose Pack<br />
Description<br />
Standard Pack of Coolant Hose containing 2 x 5.3/4" of 1/4" hose (10 Segments),<br />
3 Nozzles (1/16, 1/8 & 1/4")<br />
and<br />
1/8" &1/4" Male NPT Connectors.<br />
£12.76<br />
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EPDM Rubber Lined P Clips Air Hose Pipe Clamps Cable Retention Tube Clip Mikalor<br />
( 251259923794 )<br />
Material: W1 Mild Steel Zinc Plated DIN 3016 (PHC-**)<br />
Sold Per: 5 (Five) Clips Pack<br />
Size: 26mm Pipe Retaining Clamp<br />
£3.85 for the 4000lm torch<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-sy71rnP46ztTudtEFVEMsKLvSL10-ycuI146lMlx-0H-ncL4TThywYeq52OBX_nkJarMjoxKsEtBh0Phb4PNXx8NEjr7MS9bN-TJ7YcflfCr5KHCMO86RXmeoUEHfYkk7vF1Wh-l5Ak/s1600/m5Ouy3nMro3gjQy1l9FtU4w.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-sy71rnP46ztTudtEFVEMsKLvSL10-ycuI146lMlx-0H-ncL4TThywYeq52OBX_nkJarMjoxKsEtBh0Phb4PNXx8NEjr7MS9bN-TJ7YcflfCr5KHCMO86RXmeoUEHfYkk7vF1Wh-l5Ak/s1600/m5Ouy3nMro3gjQy1l9FtU4w.jpg" /></a></div>
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M4 SOCKET ALLEN CAP HEAD HEX KEY SCREW BOLT A2 STAINLESS STEEL (ABOLT-FTB)<br />
£1.35 for 10<br />
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M3 M4 M5 M6 M8 M10 M12 A4 MARINE STAINLESS NYLOC NYLON INSERT HEXAGON LOCK NUTS<br />
( 111035553279 )<br />
£1.20<br />
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100g Polymorph Thermoplastic<br />
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To fix the loc-line to the Goodman handle I've cut the threaded section off the loc-line base. Its quite thin so a junior hacksaw will do it easily.<br />
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Then bolted the base to the handle with the bolts threaded through the base.<br />
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Once both loc-line bases are bolted securely to the handle I made the connectors for the torches. For these I used the nozzle ends provided in the pack, choosing the two largest ones. The finished product looks like this:<br />
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To make the hole for the bolt I used a soldering iron, it could be drilled but its quite a hard polished plastic so melting a hole was a lot easier.<br />
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Passing the bolt through...<br />
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I later added a washer either side but its not shown in these photos..<br />
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To make the hose clip connection more rigid, I used a small of piece of polymorph plastic to stabalise it. Take a small piece, say a lump the size a coin, melt it in boiling water and then place it between the hose clip and the nozzle end when you tighten the bolt up. It will form into the correct shape and solidify.<br />
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You can use the soldering iron to melt the polymorph plastic around the edges to make it neater.<br />
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To plug the whole thing together, lay the loc-line pieces in boiling hot water for a few minutes and then apply a little pressure.<br />
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The torches I've used in this example are the two LED torches I've previously reviewed on my blog, one with reflector removed for video and just a normal 4000lm torch with reflector.<br />
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I've added a chord to tie the torches to the handle, just in case the loc-line is not strong enough. Its 1/4" loc-line, out of water is seems a little flimsy but I'm hoping in water it will be ok. Its the same as the Ikelite kit.<br />
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I over tightened one of the nozzle heads and cracked it, so i'm going to reinforce them with some liquid metal or resin.. not done that yet.<br />
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First outing this week...<br />
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OK, the arms work really well, the connections stayed tight and secure for 6 dives. In the water they support the weight of the torches fine. Out of water they move a little.<br />
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The non-modified torch with its reflectors still in, was no good for video, hot spot ruined the video.<br />
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The video camera also developed a nasty fault of not turning on... so not to successful!<br />
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My 3mm gloves got ripped by the bolts connecting the arms to the goodman handle, so I think the bolts need to be reduced in length.<br />
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<br />JohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8278117808961939973.post-78511197558183373162014-05-09T00:10:00.003+01:002015-05-30T21:42:46.789+01:003x CREE XML U2 LED 4000Lm Dive Light Tear Down for a new video LightBought off ebay a triple XML torch for £30. It came from a UK seller and so arrived in 2 days but suspect it could be sourced more cheaply from China..<br />
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I'm following this thread as a lot of the hard work has already been done...<br />
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<a href="http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?370370-Ebay-quot-4000-lm-quot-quot-120m-quot-Dive-Light/page2">http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?370370-Ebay-quot-4000-lm-quot-quot-120m-quot-Dive-Light/page2</a><br />
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Here goes then:</div>
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#1 Remove the chrome Bezel, I used some long nose pliers.. it will move but its very very tight...<br />
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This leaves the glass lense jammed in with an o-ring across the top. I used my nails to pluck the o-ring out.<br />
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The lense fell out with a little vigorous banging of the light head onto the floor. The LED module can then be pushed from the inside of the lighthead and it just falls out.<br />
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There is another smaller o-ring inside the light head, the glass sits on this and hence there is an o-ring above and below. You can easily miss this lower o-ring. I've left it in-situe as I'm not sure I can get it back in again.<br />
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Here is a top view of the LED module, the spring is in the centre and the hall effect sensor sits in a small groove in the metal casing. Interestingly, there is only one sensor while the slider knob, is pushed forward to make the light intensity increases. <strike>My only thought is that the magnet(s) in the slider has some sort of coding/positioning inside to indicate position on the length of the slide?</strike> Its seem to increase the light output based on the strength of the magnetic field, as you slide the magnet along it gets closer to the hall effect switch. Feels like 10 increments to full power?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1BNigKtZZUO0PWfc9e_qER4ucIZeECRbVggLl0BqSE35wHAXMsq255adrwwzywbQRStwONOkPZM57cYW-y_i1LgUECMSAIb2GLcm2zC0BwYwb_YPmLGP9h1jNk8hoMGyCW5C7DnFJB3s/s1600/20140508_222848.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1BNigKtZZUO0PWfc9e_qER4ucIZeECRbVggLl0BqSE35wHAXMsq255adrwwzywbQRStwONOkPZM57cYW-y_i1LgUECMSAIb2GLcm2zC0BwYwb_YPmLGP9h1jNk8hoMGyCW5C7DnFJB3s/s1600/20140508_222848.jpg" width="180" /></a><br />
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There is a small knurled ring to keep the Slider magnet in place, this can be unscrewed enough to let the magnet come out. Might be tricky putting in back in.</div>
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The Light steps through 7-8 power steps as you push the slider forward.</div>
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To Disassemble the LED module, push a screw driver in the small slot opposite the hall effect sensor.</div>
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The reflector piece for the LED module can be detached by unscrewing it from within the LED module.<br />
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Once you have disconnected the reflector module, the LEDs are visible. These seem to be stuck to a washer liberally coated in heatsink compound.</div>
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Other observations:<br />
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I measured 2.26A on full power at the tail.<br />
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Alignment of the magnet slider and the hall effect switch is done by the LED module only fitting in two ways and its always aligned correctly, there are two notches on the module to align it.<br />
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The Magnet slider switch can be removed by unscrewing the knurled ring, pushing it back over the o-ring a little and pulling the slider out.<br />
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This is the underside of the switch, its got a small rubber insert which gives it the resistance when you push it back and forth. After a while I found the switch to stick, put some silicon grease in the slot, this seems to sort it.</div>
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Run times:<br />
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Initial test show:-<br />
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On TrustFire 2500mAh batteries from Dealxtreme, the light lasted ~36 mins...<br />
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On Xtar 2600mAh batteries from Amazon, the light lasted ~52 mins.<br />
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The lights don't gradually go out, they go off immediately.<br />
The Trustfire are not 2500mAh, suspect they are a lot lower...<br />
Need to double check all these time.. with another run...<br />
I use my test rig here :- <a href="http://johnohuk.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Torch%20burn%20time">http://johnohuk.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Torch%20burn%20time</a><br />
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Note the torch and sensor barely fit in the bucket.<br />
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Dived this weekend and noticed that the slider switch is impossible to feel in a pair of 7mm mitts, you just can't feel the knob, just have to rotate the light making the motion and hoping it engages and turns off.<br />
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<a href="http://www.waterproof.eu/_images/products/highlights/canvas/g1_7mm_halo_small_evograph.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.waterproof.eu/_images/products/highlights/canvas/g1_7mm_halo_small_evograph.png" height="236" width="320" /></a></div>
It also started to flicker like mad after ~35mins full on use, it was so distracting (like a strobe) I had to turn it off. This makes me think it dies in different ways depending on the battery type (trustfires in this case <strike>xtars</strike>) . I'll do some more tests.<br />
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With the reflector in, its quite a floody light but because of its overall power it does throw a lot more that my other Chinese torch.<br />
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Pool shots of this triple XML light ( on left ) and the single version ( on right) with reflectors still in...<br />
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Triple light...</div>
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Single XML, much tighter beam below...</div>
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Single XML again..</div>
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Triple XML, less defined spot but much brighter..</div>
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All shots on manual 1/80 sec , f2.8, 1000 ISO, Canon S95 with Inon UWL-H100, FOV: 100.8° underwater.</div>
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Took it diving last week to 29m ( 95ft) and it was fine, vis was around 1-2m and it was dark, I actually prefered this light to my other Chinese single XML light.. The wider beam was actually more useful at this close range, wasn't much point have a long throw narrow beam.. Only issue for me is you need true >2600mA batteries to get an hour out of it ( two dives in my experience). Cheap batteries and it won't last the day..</div>
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In use at low viz... 28m..</div>
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<br />JohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8278117808961939973.post-8943530030732293722014-04-20T19:56:00.000+01:002015-04-24T14:53:29.511+01:00DIY Camera Floats / Buoyancy I've got a Canon S95 in an Ikelite housing, an Epoque 150DS strobe on Fantasea flexarm and metal tray. Coupled with an Inon UWL-100 28M67 Wide Conversion Lens. Out of water it weighs 2.3Kg approx. In water its negatively buoyant and its hard work.<br />
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There are plenty of examples on the internet for DIY floats mostly using closed cell foam. I managed to find some on ebay ( used for surfboard cores). The trade name is DIVINYCELL H80 PVC FOAM. Its pretty robust stuff, you can't make a dent in it with your finger.<br />
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It came in 100mm * 100mm * 65mm blocks for £6.20<br />
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I tried the entire block on the camera in the local fresh water pool and the camera was way too buoyant. Decided to cut it in half and try again. This proved to be about right for me, slightly positively buoyant but not too much.<br />
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To cut the foam I used a new stanley knife blade, the foam does not like to be sawed, it needs to be cut with a blade, push the knife in and out, don't pull it through the foam.<br />
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To make the hole for the bungy for attaching to the strobe arm, I used a general purpose drill, be very careful because it can rip the foam to pieces. I did it on slow speed and gently. If you have a bench drill, use that.<br />
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You can rub the foam on sandpaper to remove any rough edges from the cutting action.<br />
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I also sprayed the foam black with Matt Black auto spray. Needs only two coats.<br />
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Took it on a trip to the Red Sea and found that is was a little too positively buoyant, if I let go underwater, the camera always gently floated up round my neck ( its attached to a chest D ring by a small retractable lanyard). It also floated on the surface quite nicely, so when dekitting to get in a rib, I wasn't worried about it plunging into the depths if it was dropped !<br />
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It went to 30m no problems i.e. didn't deform and change its buoyancy characteristics.<br />
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So, for Sea water rather than fresh water, it could be say 20-30% smaller..maybe next trip..<br />
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<br />JohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8278117808961939973.post-69652303563508002712014-04-09T15:55:00.001+01:002014-04-26T09:34:15.701+01:00Video Light - Screenshots from Red Sea VideosThe following video captures are from the Sony Action Camera, using VLC in 1080p/25fps/120 degrees.<br />
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The full videos will be put on my Vimeo Channel.<br />
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All were taken using the DIY Video Light ( Double version) on a recent vacation to the Red Sea.<br />
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The first three shots are inside the Thistlegorm, lower decks in the holds, with just the Chinese torch in use not the Video lights... Not sure if you can make out the rows of open top trucks full of trailers and motobikes...<br />
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This is with the two light video light turned on. Spotted a nudibranch on the cab of a truck against the ships outer hull/rib. Distance to subject was less than a metre and very little silt in the water..</div>
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This is another hold, distance to truck cab is 2m, vis was good again, the hotspot in the top corner of the shot is the chinese torch not the video light. </div>
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Hole in the top of a truck cab, 1-2m range.</div>
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Exiting the hold, foreground lit up with DIY video lights, quit silty at this point... you can see the particles in the water.</div>
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Truck radiator, cowling long gone. Middle deck at edge of hold entrance.</div>
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Daylight shots with the video lights on.<br />
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Swimming up to a small pinnacle, "The Alternatives" at Ras Mohammed, Egypt. Its a sequence of shots swimming up to the pinnacle, the lights are only starting to have any effect within the last meter.. The little shinney fish are glass fish.<br />
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<br />JohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8278117808961939973.post-30512347397519973872013-09-16T13:17:00.003+01:002013-12-31T01:07:39.224+00:00Sony Action Cam Survives FloodGot to the seabed at 30m ( 98ft) and tried to turn on my camera and nothing, water sloshing around inside, flooded.<br />
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This is with the newer underwater case like this...<br />
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With the double video light set-up I had just clipped it to a chest D-ring and an extendable lanyard, it was not in the bag on my belt ( stowed away) and I suspect when we did a roll-off the back, it must have hit something to loosen the front door.</div>
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Anyway, at depth I wrote it off and continued the dive.</div>
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Once back on the boat, I immediately removed the battery and drained the salt water, filling the case up with mineral water, closing up the case again, giving it a good shake. I did this several times on the boat until I got back to the hotel where i again rinsed it under a tap and left it underwater for an hour to get any remaining salt out. After that, it was drain and leave to dry ( room temperature ). Once home it went into the cupboard with the heater for another 2 days before attempting a power-up and test.</div>
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Took the memory card out and inserted a new battery, powered up and it made the right noises. Menu works without the memory card but the Wifi-remote does not. Re-inserted the memory card after checking it on a PC ( in an adpater) that the card was ok and could record no problems including sound.</div>
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Noticed the PREV button is not working and the date stamp on all files copied across is 01-01-12 (UK). Just need to reset the time back again.</div>
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I think I can live without the PREV button as you can just press NEXT to go round the options.</div>
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Next test is to get wet and try the case on its own but looking ok.</div>
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I don't think this resurrection is too uncommon as a friends Go-Pro 3 had a similar problem, his only failure was the lcd screen on the back...</div>
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The battery that flooded looks a goner. (Correct)...</div>
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Whilst looking on the web for a solution I found a Youtube video of a guy dissembling the Action Cam to correct a rattle, I don't have a rattle but this gave me the info to look at PREV button issue...</div>
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The two small screws next to the USB port secures the electronics to the case, undo these and you can slide out the camera itself from the case: Take off the USB cover and the facia plate.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtE5aL0dhNPoc2UXryRhsNH10ghFxrSFB-ZzHP8_IV2xfHZhxe2osXGNEIXQ5uVvn7Wwft-7mi4kU7mZzSGI-j0ftf1wlEC6nXjzw9UnU4sj6u3NwpHpfIBlF2E1YksUk0rHyotbumx4c/s1600/IMG_20130916_105319.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtE5aL0dhNPoc2UXryRhsNH10ghFxrSFB-ZzHP8_IV2xfHZhxe2osXGNEIXQ5uVvn7Wwft-7mi4kU7mZzSGI-j0ftf1wlEC6nXjzw9UnU4sj6u3NwpHpfIBlF2E1YksUk0rHyotbumx4c/s640/IMG_20130916_105319.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Note the corrosion on the screws.</div>
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Small battery on the bottom right for the RTC?</div>
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Not related to the flooding but noticed this rusting on the tripod mound on the base of the housing....Thread is still ok but greased it up anyway to limit the rust.</div>
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<br />JohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8278117808961939973.post-5038669647607686312013-09-06T15:37:00.003+01:002014-05-18T23:26:17.414+01:00Measure Torch burn time and compare outputs with an Arduino Uno and bh1750fvi-e.pdf ( lux meter)I was curious as to how long my batteries were lasting in my torches. I tried turning them on and watching to see when they dimmed/turned off, mostly I missed the inevitable end.... Also trying to gauge power output was proving problematic, they all look very similar. So, something a little more scientific was required.<br />
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I thought the answer was a bh1750fvi-e sensor which is a calibrated light sensor readily available and easily interfaced to. In fact all the code/circuit was already on the internet, just needed a small tweak to add a timestamp and capture to file.<br />
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The principle is :<br />
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1) An Arduino Uno has a bh1750fvi-e sensor connected to it via the I2C bus.<br />
2) The Uno reads the sensor every 1 second and outputs to a connected PC a timestamped value.<br />
3) The Pc captures the Uno's output in MS HyperTerminal, to a file.<br />
4) Load the file in MS Excel and graph it.<br />
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An example is shown below, from a Ultrafire G2-t60 torch with a fully charged 18650 3.7V 2500ma Trustfire battery loaded. Its draws about 2.2A at the tailcap. Distance from Torch to Sensor, approx 20cm..<br />
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Looks like only a 50 minute burn time.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjciBhtR0AP7aIHF4s8sE5Bde6GcgOtOBPiNBjiQ51pQ0pbAcoFHsN27ty7CZqHZsOTYHm5STWDuEKteazP_wxjCC3p_ngPqcBZqwIwn-Djzy0NAHzenNepGyYgIe1dkr257aq2dDRrGSQ/s1600/Ultrafire+G2-t60+2500ma+Trustfire.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjciBhtR0AP7aIHF4s8sE5Bde6GcgOtOBPiNBjiQ51pQ0pbAcoFHsN27ty7CZqHZsOTYHm5STWDuEKteazP_wxjCC3p_ngPqcBZqwIwn-Djzy0NAHzenNepGyYgIe1dkr257aq2dDRrGSQ/s640/Ultrafire+G2-t60+2500ma+Trustfire.JPG" height="337" width="640" /></a></div>
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The graph shows Lux, Foot-Candles and Wattsm2.<br />
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I had hoped to measure Lumens but that is a completely different measurement, google it, its not trivial... So the magnitude of the graph is sort of irrelevant in the graph unless you want to compare power outputs between multiple torches.<br />
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Lux is the only value returned from the sensor, the other two were included in the code I found on the internet and derived from the Lux value, might loose them.<br />
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The torch was about 20cm from the sensor, the further away you move it the values go down. I suspect this was too close and the initial values of the torch at full power are maxing out the sensor. To compare torches, i'll experiment with greater distances, if this is a 800-900 lumen torch then to provide some future proofing in comparisons with more powerful torches i'll try increasing the distance to 1m.<br />
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<b><u>Parts:</u></b><br />
<br />
Arduino Uno because I had one..<br />
PC for connecting to the Uno for programming and recording the values ( USB).<br />
BH1750FVI Digital Light intensity Sensor Module for Arduino, like this from ebay..<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv6P8XpAikwFE219rGOzzsVzSQxiYNOSwaNr_OlZ4HYKJb3E3j_Nt9KK4zwU5C77lezEET_XPmP5U5T9MrqZbccETxIRaJFVzIXEHZiz7A81DbQn1Nd2cYqWHFg6LaNZbHM0AgUW2uF8E/s1600/bh1750fvi+ebay.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv6P8XpAikwFE219rGOzzsVzSQxiYNOSwaNr_OlZ4HYKJb3E3j_Nt9KK4zwU5C77lezEET_XPmP5U5T9MrqZbccETxIRaJFVzIXEHZiz7A81DbQn1Nd2cYqWHFg6LaNZbHM0AgUW2uF8E/s640/bh1750fvi+ebay.JPG" height="235" width="640" /></a></div>
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Datasheet for sensor...<br />
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<a href="http://www.rohm.com/products/databook/sensor/pdf/bh1750fvi-e.pdf">www.rohm.com/products/databook/sensor/pdf/bh1750fvi-e.pdf</a><br />
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I used a breadboard to prototype it up...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE4OEE59XhiDAzhcZ2hK0fxyiqn6trwJuTVjQ8-sxoVnCazeM8LzSJLpQKl2BuhmI1nlGtbp-_hIAkwG3z-K-T8T_rqBU8SEfXLihqNgUAMUj_phddKbMKvexbWi6sqcUldUdEGkTFciM/s1600/IMG_20130901_111627.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE4OEE59XhiDAzhcZ2hK0fxyiqn6trwJuTVjQ8-sxoVnCazeM8LzSJLpQKl2BuhmI1nlGtbp-_hIAkwG3z-K-T8T_rqBU8SEfXLihqNgUAMUj_phddKbMKvexbWi6sqcUldUdEGkTFciM/s640/IMG_20130901_111627.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
And test like this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyd3uO_oXlzynX0QTd45xfCCM-63RP_KWMD6x4fN58KJ8ejcOWKEqjQVIeRXzuLhOtqRXhxGg8fASZkFINrrg2Xos_LNWCk_ucURVyAlwmx0C8mf3K-c4fMNC3hG6u8h3OvKkppni_GYw/s1600/IMG_20130903_001706.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyd3uO_oXlzynX0QTd45xfCCM-63RP_KWMD6x4fN58KJ8ejcOWKEqjQVIeRXzuLhOtqRXhxGg8fASZkFINrrg2Xos_LNWCk_ucURVyAlwmx0C8mf3K-c4fMNC3hG6u8h3OvKkppni_GYw/s320/IMG_20130903_001706.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Circuit is only 4 wires to support the sensor's power requirements and the I2C interface. Its listed in the programme below.<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">/*</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> #######################################################</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Arduino Light Meter</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> #######################################################</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> BH1750 sensor module connections:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> -------------------------------------</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> BH1750 Arduino</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> VCC ---------------> 5V</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> SCL ---------------> Analog pin 5 (A5)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> SDA ---------------> Analog pin 4 (A4)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> ADD ---------------> Leave it open</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> GND ---------------> GND</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> #######################################################</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> */</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">#include "Wire.h" </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">#include "math.h"</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">// macros from DateTime.h </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">/* Useful Constants */</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">#define SECS_PER_MIN (60UL)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">#define SECS_PER_HOUR (3600UL)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">#define SECS_PER_DAY (SECS_PER_HOUR * 24L)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">/* Useful Macros for getting elapsed time */</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">#define numberOfSeconds(_time_) (_time_ % SECS_PER_MIN) </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">#define numberOfMinutes(_time_) ((_time_ / SECS_PER_MIN) % SECS_PER_MIN) </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">#define numberOfHours(_time_) (( _time_% SECS_PER_DAY) / SECS_PER_HOUR)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">#define elapsedDays(_time_) ( _time_ / SECS_PER_DAY) </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">int BH1750_Device = 0x23; // I2C address for light sensor</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">int iCheck = 0; // iCheck = 0 for Lux, iCheck = 1 for Foot-Candles</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">unsigned int Lux, Scaled_FtCd;</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">float FtCd, Wattsm2;</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">void setup()</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">{</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Wire.begin();</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Serial.begin(9600);</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Configure_BH1750();</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> delay(300);</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Serial.println("Time, [lx], [FC] , [Watts/m^2]");</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">}</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">void loop()</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">{</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Lux = BH1750_Read();</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> FtCd = Lux/10.764; /*Foot Candle*/</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Wattsm2 = Lux/683.0;</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> time(millis() / 1000);</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Serial.print (","); </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Serial.print(Lux,DEC); </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Serial.print (",");</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Serial.print(FtCd,2); </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Serial.print (",");</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Serial.println(Wattsm2,4); </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> delay(1000);</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">}</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">unsigned int BH1750_Read() //</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">{</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> unsigned int i=0;</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Wire.beginTransmission(BH1750_Device);</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Wire.requestFrom(BH1750_Device, 2);</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> while(Wire.available()) //</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> {</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> i <<=8; //Highbyte/Lowbyte read</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> i|= Wire.read(); </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> }</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Wire.endTransmission(); </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> return i/1.2; // Convert to Lux as per datasheet..</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">}</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">void Configure_BH1750() </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">{</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Wire.beginTransmission(BH1750_Device);</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Wire.write(0x10); // Set resolution to 1 Lux / continous H-Res mode</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Wire.endTransmission();</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">}</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">void time(long val){ </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> int days = elapsedDays(val);</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> int hours = numberOfHours(val);</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> int minutes = numberOfMinutes(val);</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> int seconds = numberOfSeconds(val);</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> char time_c[13];</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> sprintf(time_c,"%02d:%02d:%02d" , hours, minutes, seconds); </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Serial.print(time_c);</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">}</span><br />
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When you run the programme from within Arduino IDE you can verify the output using the Serial monitor in the Tools menu. I thought there was a way of capturing it direct from there but couldn't find it, so i opted to use the old terminal emulator supplied with Windows ( Hyper Terminal under Programs/Communications).<br />
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First of all exit the Arduino IDE to free up the USB port and then run up Hyper Terminal.<br />
Create a new connection which is:-<br />
Connects using the COM port used by Arduino IDE ( mine was COM8 for the USB port).<br />
Bit Speed = 9600<br />
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Enable capture to file using the Transfer menu option "Capture Text"<br />
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To capture text with the headings from the Uno's output, <b>Call </b>the device to reset the Uno and get it to start logging from 00:00:00 and output the headings. You can <b>Call / Disconnect</b> the Uno to reset its output anytime.<br />
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I left the torch on overnight, stopped the capture the next morning, loading into MS Excel as a CSV file and graphed it. The first row in the file contains the series names.<br />
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<b><u>Not so plain sailing...</u></b><br />
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I tried again with the same torch ( Ultrafire G2-t60) and a premium Xtar 3.7v 2600 to see if that made any difference to the run time....<br />
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Started it off and after 30mins noticed a nice warm plastic smell, it was running so hot it was burning the plastic surface it was resting on ! I had to let it cool down and repeat the process, making the excel graphing a nightmare.. ( with the current timestamp). But it ended up like this:-<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvd18gW4b5HD9MsWMDTsR1FzyHcUwZ1lfFI54KskPOhl_Z_7XTwjeWLFRbT7AK4I7acBVzbakvAEcmvDYghDROzSNdP9UxjbKhNPqQigrP6EDzSamZh_vYgzLYgDrotg5nFtXJ0Yj18PY/s1600/xtar1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvd18gW4b5HD9MsWMDTsR1FzyHcUwZ1lfFI54KskPOhl_Z_7XTwjeWLFRbT7AK4I7acBVzbakvAEcmvDYghDROzSNdP9UxjbKhNPqQigrP6EDzSamZh_vYgzLYgDrotg5nFtXJ0Yj18PY/s400/xtar1.JPG" height="250" width="400" /></a></div>
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Let it cool down !</div>
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Final Run.</div>
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Total Runtime at max power ish... = 55mins, it was beginning to drop off but I can't imagine it would be noticeable. Looks like the Xtar battery was only slightly better that the Dealxtreme Trustfire battery.</div>
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<b><u>Next steps:-</u></b><br />
<b><u><br /></u></b>Reduce the frequency from every 1s reading to say 5s to reduce the number of rows.<br />
Try 1m distance between sensor and torch to be able to compare torches of wider Lumen output.<br />
Heat management, work on a heat dissipation method.<br />
Review the timestamp format to make Excel work easier and stopping/starting.<br />
Waterproof sensor, so I can measure dive torch run times.<br />
Gather some more data with different torches/LEDs/Battery to work on the comparisons.<br />
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<u><b>Update:</b></u><br />
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Created a waterproof version so I can measure dive torches burn time and not worry about overheating...<br />
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Placed the sensor in an acrylic tube and used a rubber bung to block if off. The tube was an offcut from my dive torch project <a href="http://johnohuk.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/dive-light-upgraded-power-pack.html">Here</a><br />
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I shortened the bung so the sensor could sit as far down the tube as possible, as the torch is resting on the bottom of my bucket and the beam is quite low.<br />
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I used the waste from the bung to make a wedge to keep the sensor in place.<br />
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Then place the torch and the sensor in a bucket of tap water, pointing the torch at the sensor.<br />
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The wire is 4 core alarm cable but could be anything, length is about 1m back to the Arduino Uno board.<br />
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Now I can run the torch without worrying about heat, in one test, I ran the torch for 2hrs and it was barely warm.<br />
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In testing the triple XML light ( link here .<u>light</u>. ) I've noticed that the circuit/program doesn't detect the flickering you sometimes get when the battery is going too low to drive the LED... Pro<br />
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<br />JohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8278117808961939973.post-39461128333553019852013-09-01T21:50:00.000+01:002015-05-30T15:27:33.500+01:00Underwater Video Light - Dual light for Sony Action CamAfter the success of my single video light ( with reflector removed) I modded another identical light to fix a number of issues I discovered i.e. a small shadow in the top right corner and add a little more power..<br />
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So, I've added an identical light to the other side and moved the lights further closer to the camera itself by attaching them further up the handle.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCV0xdF-YBxvDB7P61NRfi_KG-76koMnPQ8TYOy-EHl2SCfTGh9I-sIRSGSfOAzfAvM34uPv_Vv5TMaUQozDgaro1StF56uEdDQbuhBszc4r08lWabhg6hz2tM9ZCpGFjN0m8mTClOLTk/s1600/IMG_20130829_182146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCV0xdF-YBxvDB7P61NRfi_KG-76koMnPQ8TYOy-EHl2SCfTGh9I-sIRSGSfOAzfAvM34uPv_Vv5TMaUQozDgaro1StF56uEdDQbuhBszc4r08lWabhg6hz2tM9ZCpGFjN0m8mTClOLTk/s320/IMG_20130829_182146.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The second light was modified in a similar way to the first, only the shape of the metal plate is different... rather a square rather than a strip in the first. Still jammed in rather than fixed in any way.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHlWIP5HtDVPkOwLT7uBXU1fXywWq7ZNTTKdf-Kxirlvag9Z4RODRYJp-35YS6Yx6AUJkMZrSysLG8qT50Qa7_RZLFgGQrpURTYJfoVyn5YNCVHglENYzNVWQvsHJPx1A_rmt5zXE-Ap4/s1600/IMG_20130829_182157.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHlWIP5HtDVPkOwLT7uBXU1fXywWq7ZNTTKdf-Kxirlvag9Z4RODRYJp-35YS6Yx6AUJkMZrSysLG8qT50Qa7_RZLFgGQrpURTYJfoVyn5YNCVHglENYzNVWQvsHJPx1A_rmt5zXE-Ap4/s320/IMG_20130829_182157.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Used the same clip as before, using a bit of inner tube to provide a little extra friction, underwater I found the lights moving when I turned them on/off. From ebay :</div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Trebuchet, 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 18px; font-weight: bold; text-align: start;">EPDM Rubber Lined P Clips Hose Pipe Clamp Cable Wiring Metal & Stainless Mikalor, 27mm pipe fitting.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIA7tQsmuNECCFaOfsNkyS-nAXDThkdLrEJnYST32Iwv3YSBWKwRAywieW-KHyHcVYFkqYQu11uGCPREf0VHopPM-e1ujfNbWwSlULYerQ_QdzihG5tBaxzSj7ofu8OCU0cYsw5brj3KU/s1600/IMG_20130829_182726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIA7tQsmuNECCFaOfsNkyS-nAXDThkdLrEJnYST32Iwv3YSBWKwRAywieW-KHyHcVYFkqYQu11uGCPREf0VHopPM-e1ujfNbWwSlULYerQ_QdzihG5tBaxzSj7ofu8OCU0cYsw5brj3KU/s320/IMG_20130829_182726.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Going diving next week and will post the results...</div>
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<b><u>Update :</u></b> Made a slight mistake in diving with the camera set to slow mo which ruined my videos, slow mode underwater is not a good idea.. The camera also flooded on day #2 so i didn't get much shooting done. Did get this clip with the dual light though :-</div>
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<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mae-2lmHQNo&feature=share&list=UUO66gb-TgVML3FtDPmxqX7w">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mae-2lmHQNo&feature=share&list=UUO66gb-TgVML3FtDPmxqX7w</a></div>
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Update: Another version of this set-up...</div>
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<a href="http://johnohuk.blogspot.co.uk/2015/05/new-double-video-light-rig.html">http://johnohuk.blogspot.co.uk/2015/05/new-double-video-light-rig.html</a></div>
<br />JohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8278117808961939973.post-22495019655575366942013-07-15T14:48:00.000+01:002014-04-26T09:35:58.298+01:00DIY Underwater Video light for my Sony Action CamPreviously I had mounted a simple dive light to the side of my goodman handle which had the video camera mounted on like this...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigkvqlepts75DJSzIE6Pio4nlJzJHSxYpKVlzrorfjrZp6qRzBGAY-rX7a6ZryKSARrif3bz_LIw0RhmyV00P1zlIVwCBKeGF3jrgaDxCBs2N9Aq8hpmvg5p4qiN53qv2DknRXf-e0vKU/s1600/IMG_20130627_170423.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigkvqlepts75DJSzIE6Pio4nlJzJHSxYpKVlzrorfjrZp6qRzBGAY-rX7a6ZryKSARrif3bz_LIw0RhmyV00P1zlIVwCBKeGF3jrgaDxCBs2N9Aq8hpmvg5p4qiN53qv2DknRXf-e0vKU/s320/IMG_20130627_170423.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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But the issue was, the reflector in the torch was creating a hot spot in the images.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEQNCHaakBuFX38GmQcFdx90pwuL56sSSQPIyhitSPGv-jJ-5oVbVegoJX6T8rRPXtmeL3K5pi90R3MDLFvOyxNJpSfG-zZk3wjI6I4tn2TH4Qmq_rcDC0kH6j_vZRmTpnG8urLrEFDEM/s1600/vlcsnap-2013-06-27-14h31m36s29.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEQNCHaakBuFX38GmQcFdx90pwuL56sSSQPIyhitSPGv-jJ-5oVbVegoJX6T8rRPXtmeL3K5pi90R3MDLFvOyxNJpSfG-zZk3wjI6I4tn2TH4Qmq_rcDC0kH6j_vZRmTpnG8urLrEFDEM/s320/vlcsnap-2013-06-27-14h31m36s29.png" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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So I set out to remove the reflector from the torch and move the LED to as close to the lense as I could, to create a wide angle light. Basically copying the off the shelf video lights on the market.<br />
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So, I bought another one of the Cree lights ( as per my blog) and modded it like this...<br />
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Disassemble the light and remove the LED module...<br />
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The LED pcb on top can be lifted upwards, it has some play in the red and blue wires but not enough to bring the LED to the front of the torch, so these need to be lengthened..<br />
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I unsoldered the original wires from the LED pcb, found some new cable of the same colour ( multi-core) and soldered them up like above.. I also put some insulation tape over the connections. New length is only about 1.5 inches..<br />
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To hold the LED pcb close the lense, I cut a 40mm length of steel angle line and tie wrapped the LED pcb to it, placing a good squirt of heat sink compound between the two.<br />
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The steel strip is only held in place by virtue of it being a tight fit.<br />
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Inside the head there is an edge where starts to get narrower, I measured this edge to be 40mm approximately in diameter, so if I cut something of that length it would sit on the edge rather falling in.<br />
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I'm working on a neater solution with a 40mm washer instead but it was a good prototype solution.<br />
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I was worried that the LED would get too hot given the small piece of metal now acting as a heat sink and relatively low contact area with the side of the torch but its not had a problem.<br />
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The next major problem to overcome is, the reflector is used to hold the LED module against the battery to make the circuit. Removing the reflector, basically makes the module and battery fly upwards and out !<br />
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To overcome this, I glued the module into the head with J-B Weld.<br />
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<b>You need to be very careful here, because glueing the LED module in the wrong position will stop the magnetic ring selector working i.e. no turn on</b>.<br />
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To get round this slight issue, mark inside, the position you will want to glue it in. I turned the ring into the ON position, pushed the LED module down and turned it until the light came on constantly. Then I marked on the LED module and the inside of the head like so..<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwqI1Iimx37jXDSjcdTlN5EUG8nMWeCU9hSIMH_UC5jcob1hRoUN2Ni99Mv4xGvgp8s5-02yqEP1JnpQs7fKAgUrhyphenhyphenMrN5LwIv9suZIIrIjOfFQG4bd-4IlTKAZ08x4zjXlrbFivaAATo/s1600/IMG_20130711_195244.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwqI1Iimx37jXDSjcdTlN5EUG8nMWeCU9hSIMH_UC5jcob1hRoUN2Ni99Mv4xGvgp8s5-02yqEP1JnpQs7fKAgUrhyphenhyphenMrN5LwIv9suZIIrIjOfFQG4bd-4IlTKAZ08x4zjXlrbFivaAATo/s320/IMG_20130711_195244.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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This gives you the correct position.<br />
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To fix it in and make the circuit with the battery underneath, I removed the spring on the underside and glued the mating edges.<br />
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Pushing it in, lining up my marks and leaving overnight to set.<br />
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Once the glue has set, you can place the LED back in the head, on its new base and tighten up the lense/bezel.<br />
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In my 'prototype' the metal plate is a snug fit so once pushed in it isn't going moving too soon. I didn't need to do much else.</div>
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<b><u>Results:</u></b><br />
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Went diving this weekend, 2 dives to 28m ( 91ft ) and 20m ( 65ft ) , no issues with leaks so happy and the light spot is gone !<br />
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Tompot Blenny on the MV Aeolian Sky. I think this was taken around 23m, vis was 2-3m and distance 1m to subject.<br />
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About 1m - 1.5m to subject.<br />
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<b><u>Some observations..</u></b><br />
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In the first image above, the light is cut off in the very corner, which i think might be the furthest corner from the light, I reversed the image because the Tompot decided he wanted to stay upside down which doesn't make for a good picture so the bottom right in fact the top left in the real life, which at opposite end on the rig from the light. My only thought is to move the LED closer to the lense.<br />
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Even a second torch would sort that one out or mount higher up on the handle.<br />
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The second image shows some backscatter i.e. the muck in the water. It was pretty bad but maybe positioning the light further away/up would sort that out ?<br />
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I like the look of the Light For Me setup for the GoPro with its butterfly/adjustable clamps on the side...If I can find those I might invest in them.<br />
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On this dive and those ambient light conditions, the light only had a range of 1.5m approximately, beyond that<span style="font-family: inherit;"> it, it looses it's effectiveness so you need more power! Maybe a second light on the other side of the rig. But I do like the size/ease of use of this set-up, it fits in a pocket so no special entry requirments.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">The light became a bit loose in the clamp, will need to put some inner tube around it to give it some grip.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><u><b>Further bits:</b></u></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Remembered the camera was on Underwater scene mode, 120 degrees ( widest angle the SteadyShot works on) and</span> 1920×1080/30P(HQ).<br />
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<b><u>More thoughts:</u></b><br />
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After 7 dives with the new double light configuration, in varying UK conditions, green/dark good/bad vis, I've observed the following...<br />
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1) At Max setting, two lights give an adequate light on the scene at a range of 1m (3ft), this is in darker waters. Night dive might be better further away, lighter / closer to the surface your going to need to get very close to make a difference, say 0.5m ( 1.5ft).<br />
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2) Backscatter, the lights are quite close to the camera and like a stills camera its suffering from backscatter. Strangley its ok at the short ranges <1m but as u get further away from the target its pretty awful. Its a shame because the form factor is really neat and not bulky at all. But you can't live with it, its too annoying. Only solution I can think of is to move them off the goodman handle with arms like the Light For Me design. Need to see whether that suffers from the same issue before investing in those arms.<br />
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3) Torches slipped in the brackets. Thicker rubber tubing required.<br />
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4) The 3rd torch i purchased, I couldn't remove the pill to make the modification, maybe it needs a little more force but I avoided this by using the ones i can mod for use as video lights..<br />
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<br />JohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8278117808961939973.post-82610403255682612442013-07-15T12:29:00.000+01:002013-10-03T00:38:11.115+01:00Cree Dive light - Magnetic Ring...The mode selector was getting stiff on one of the Cree dive lights I bought. I tried to move back and forth to loosen it up and it jammed completely, oops. Right, apply some more force and the whole assembly fell off.<br />
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<b>NB To remove the ring, you need to disconnect the head from the body and turn the ring to the off position as there is a groove for the magnet to slide through. Then slide off with a little force, the magnet might run on the o-rings.</b><br />
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It looks like this :-<br />
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On one side there is a small hole to contain a spring and ball bearing ( that sits on top).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjahBbQygHrgfI3vNhPqPw9vYB4Fi67R-FC8IL2fRj9c7v9I0yAeXXihZ1xxa9N8dcdoIbRDH0WfdG_v_Ta0AAVbWmqgqXuJUlV8Wga-X_n7pIcakBCyMbaC-d0fsa66cgCiQm5wHdGGVo/s1600/IMG_20130711_093703.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjahBbQygHrgfI3vNhPqPw9vYB4Fi67R-FC8IL2fRj9c7v9I0yAeXXihZ1xxa9N8dcdoIbRDH0WfdG_v_Ta0AAVbWmqgqXuJUlV8Wga-X_n7pIcakBCyMbaC-d0fsa66cgCiQm5wHdGGVo/s320/IMG_20130711_093703.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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On the opposite side of the head is a groove for the magnet.</div>
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There were signs of rust around the magnet and the hole so maybe the spring / ball bearing are rusting...</div>
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Reassembled the whole thing quite easily. Might take it apart again to oil it.</div>
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<b>Update after 30 odd-dives :</b></div>
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The ring now has completely free movement, no notch. The spring has completely rusted up and fell to pieces when I removed it. The ball bearing was fine.</div>
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Its too loose underwater like this as it keeps turning itself off, so to provide some resistance to the ring movement, I added a piece of inner tube which seems to work...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHhScmRgdEFetUW50AkGfEEzx3BcPC7Ev-opXghsHBkeJYdWA1o23pVhBbeRmIB_Ff8TtonhbPYE1sWlRq_RZ2HOjRzGfIERj2SSckvbqb0L0lU3NyBc0frOTb93SfPqoMo0NRBPXH3MI/s1600/IMG_20131001_113145.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHhScmRgdEFetUW50AkGfEEzx3BcPC7Ev-opXghsHBkeJYdWA1o23pVhBbeRmIB_Ff8TtonhbPYE1sWlRq_RZ2HOjRzGfIERj2SSckvbqb0L0lU3NyBc0frOTb93SfPqoMo0NRBPXH3MI/s320/IMG_20131001_113145.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<br />JohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8278117808961939973.post-89956594386412444882013-06-27T14:55:00.001+01:002014-04-08T17:25:57.011+01:00SONY HDR-AS15 Action Cam<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My second Canon Ixus 75 flooded again, the plethora of Go-Pros when diving and a recent trip to Scapa Flow seduced me into the world of video... As per usual, instead of following the herd I tried not to go to the default route of a go-pro 3 and choose the Sony action cam. The lense quality, sensor low light capabilities and price brought me to this device. It doesn't have same level of accessories as the go-pro but thats fine...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.sony.co.uk/product/cam-action-cam/hdr-as15">http://www.sony.co.uk/product/cam-action-cam/hdr-as15</a></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS5FADGGx-yK-0oTuSjLVPlU5EIeHZIsn-rbOE9JujvxhBRuxIHQKqD0CcFA2tOl0jpQkQlhmYFVvLLbuZu9IR5GUa8VN2bBSMkyju_p4pTVdjhc-FWwh3uibgH8vpoyzufXLCFs_RqBo/s1600/hdr-as15-1-s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS5FADGGx-yK-0oTuSjLVPlU5EIeHZIsn-rbOE9JujvxhBRuxIHQKqD0CcFA2tOl0jpQkQlhmYFVvLLbuZu9IR5GUa8VN2bBSMkyju_p4pTVdjhc-FWwh3uibgH8vpoyzufXLCFs_RqBo/s1600/hdr-as15-1-s.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I also bought a spare battery, charger and underwater flat ported door from Sony.. You need a flat port for diving.. google it..</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Purchased from John Lewis Stores £199, Amazon £20 and ebay £35 for the door pack.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Action Cam Replacement Doors — 2 Pack</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Model number: AKA-RD1</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">To mount it, I used the provided flat surface clip on mount, tie wrapped to a goodman handle. This was in turn secured to me by a retractable lanyard clipped off on my right chest D ring.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tie wraps (T&B) and not cable ties, are 2mm width for extra strength. Two each side of the mount.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Two tie wraps on each side, going through the holes in the goodman handle and the mount, crossing over to give extra strength.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Retractable lanyard.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiss-X9Ho2gNXyK1xDXfS-8XR6ite5Yfh-fPGiepYmreyR9dCe-WDd0pdQ95yobGM4yz5EKuY8F8J8Dt4uNZZJp8pfMmjWW3XeH6_R_jn11BjvE16-D6nAQXadM6Uq5-M_FwgdA-rCJxLI/s1600/IMG_20130625_214931.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiss-X9Ho2gNXyK1xDXfS-8XR6ite5Yfh-fPGiepYmreyR9dCe-WDd0pdQ95yobGM4yz5EKuY8F8J8Dt4uNZZJp8pfMmjWW3XeH6_R_jn11BjvE16-D6nAQXadM6Uq5-M_FwgdA-rCJxLI/s1600/IMG_20130625_214931.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">To protect it when I jump in, I keep it in a Bowstone pocket on my belt and then remove once in the water. Its always clipped off to the right chest D-ring.. I thought I would need a bolt snap on it for extra security but i've not used it yet.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqZbn59eImo4O6qGwh7eu9-JuVUZZU3avufQHRmMstfq1yo-ml9LEHdWv2o6sRc_gotPreY3XWPtMlqwLVqzq72jtfoHYAu6Nj4zr34833AzI5iRNw3_cwRp8hZ4ydWB0ZE37G7OZc4fo/s1600/IMG_20130621_134643.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqZbn59eImo4O6qGwh7eu9-JuVUZZU3avufQHRmMstfq1yo-ml9LEHdWv2o6sRc_gotPreY3XWPtMlqwLVqzq72jtfoHYAu6Nj4zr34833AzI5iRNw3_cwRp8hZ4ydWB0ZE37G7OZc4fo/s1600/IMG_20130621_134643.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Its a bit fiddle to get out of the bag but it works. I think thats the bags fault!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b><u>Lighting</u></b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As my first trip was going to be deep and dark ( like most UK dives tbh) I added a light to the goodman handle.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was a bit of a lash up and the angle bracket that the light was attached to, seriously rusted... so the mark 2 is shown below. This uses, from ebay...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">EPDM Rubber Lined P Clips Hose Pipe Clamp Cable Wiring Metal & Stainless Mikalor, 30mm stainless steel and a M4 X 12 A2 SOCKET CAP HEAD SCREW HEX ALLEN KEY BOLT A2 STAINLESS + Bolt.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikvUZ8qBcxnrRqbsAGch6Z83CtwE6NNPml382hHZibpUDzMTdrzGYmFW-EH65H7jdmwu94VWwz-Nrp11PSKV2du6oguDBEOb_ck3lKe9VHGI4gdgZMOD68j5CjpWkoo0gGLRbeD_CtQUs/s1600/IMG_20130627_141011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikvUZ8qBcxnrRqbsAGch6Z83CtwE6NNPml382hHZibpUDzMTdrzGYmFW-EH65H7jdmwu94VWwz-Nrp11PSKV2du6oguDBEOb_ck3lKe9VHGI4gdgZMOD68j5CjpWkoo0gGLRbeD_CtQUs/s1600/IMG_20130627_141011.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I also updated the firmware to the latest version, this gave it more shooting modes but more importantly, introduced the underwater scene mode, essential! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The biggest issue with this setup is the spot from the light shows up too much on the video, it needs to be diffused. I tried a plastic opaque top from somewhere in the kitchen but it doesn't diffuse enough..</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgutZeIZbskz2Pw3JnJyjl7RDj4MMO95_1PFzHx4Y57Bl0zLykBxtmxrjvOowS1KFIpmu0dTZp3uaKDlu5acHd7OEZu63PVJyP1OlbgekGYOVmCFChybCXtSmhwUKCTdyTSPjMbmeyGX4/s1600/IMG_20130627_142036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgutZeIZbskz2Pw3JnJyjl7RDj4MMO95_1PFzHx4Y57Bl0zLykBxtmxrjvOowS1KFIpmu0dTZp3uaKDlu5acHd7OEZu63PVJyP1OlbgekGYOVmCFChybCXtSmhwUKCTdyTSPjMbmeyGX4/s1600/IMG_20130627_142036.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUXh_5Dxc5kIHHptKAKKa3p65i7CJCPruOXfNbU-eYJaj2Jl9NMS2pQvrNEB40Fpn9q_DDUNpQbruFbeh3GaiOMXf_sPHc3IMex2bsKqUlj8ySd2T5o6-eLRro8uQZYjUYFsFZv2IlCiw/s1600/IMG_20130627_142057.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUXh_5Dxc5kIHHptKAKKa3p65i7CJCPruOXfNbU-eYJaj2Jl9NMS2pQvrNEB40Fpn9q_DDUNpQbruFbeh3GaiOMXf_sPHc3IMex2bsKqUlj8ySd2T5o6-eLRro8uQZYjUYFsFZv2IlCiw/s1600/IMG_20130627_142057.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I had the diffuser on a detachable bungey so that I could use it as a general torch but I never did remove it underwater....</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This is a frame from the video with the light on full power with the diffuser. As the camera has no viewfinder, its a bit of suck it and see. The torch does have a number of power settings but this didn't seem to remove the spot, just reduce its intensity.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEQNCHaakBuFX38GmQcFdx90pwuL56sSSQPIyhitSPGv-jJ-5oVbVegoJX6T8rRPXtmeL3K5pi90R3MDLFvOyxNJpSfG-zZk3wjI6I4tn2TH4Qmq_rcDC0kH6j_vZRmTpnG8urLrEFDEM/s1600/vlcsnap-2013-06-27-14h31m36s29.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEQNCHaakBuFX38GmQcFdx90pwuL56sSSQPIyhitSPGv-jJ-5oVbVegoJX6T8rRPXtmeL3K5pi90R3MDLFvOyxNJpSfG-zZk3wjI6I4tn2TH4Qmq_rcDC0kH6j_vZRmTpnG8urLrEFDEM/s1600/vlcsnap-2013-06-27-14h31m36s29.png" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This was my torch shinning from the left ( wrist mounted) which is useful for lighting from the side, its like painting the light..</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzZ8IjyYOqRvRkxRoaaMKkIVJdRWRfRN7Jawh4cizFgTKm7krpiGzNSdMTdj8dlJAAlxUDz-jFjaA1xJVUGSgy6VmRPc2nTkq7LWMgngiIsqU1ttO9FwmJ739EE403iqK9AWMOm4sj5R8/s1600/vlcsnap-2013-06-27-14h31m00s190.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzZ8IjyYOqRvRkxRoaaMKkIVJdRWRfRN7Jawh4cizFgTKm7krpiGzNSdMTdj8dlJAAlxUDz-jFjaA1xJVUGSgy6VmRPc2nTkq7LWMgngiIsqU1ttO9FwmJ739EE403iqK9AWMOm4sj5R8/s1600/vlcsnap-2013-06-27-14h31m00s190.png" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here is a picture with mostly natural lighting ( beam from left is faint) , its probably a cloudy day, 26m depth... Its the Hull/Deck of the Dresden...</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8VX2eSK7yHyUSFJ9tZavTaDSpRBHbTZYzrZ_PQ1w8rLRFMPi-vOBYjkdVAFpwtEnpsblkVipi1uPGwKKLBGBR9_L1rd5u6r_pSZ7SeOPq_hiTdesOKqn-INooC_pI7X0vDI9VDOzKVaA/s1600/vlcsnap-2013-06-27-14h32m08s101.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8VX2eSK7yHyUSFJ9tZavTaDSpRBHbTZYzrZ_PQ1w8rLRFMPi-vOBYjkdVAFpwtEnpsblkVipi1uPGwKKLBGBR9_L1rd5u6r_pSZ7SeOPq_hiTdesOKqn-INooC_pI7X0vDI9VDOzKVaA/s1600/vlcsnap-2013-06-27-14h32m08s101.png" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Next quest is for a better method of diffusing the light. Maybe remove the lense and just have the LED "bare" or another material in front...? Watch this space...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b><u>Some initial observations :</u></b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I thought the flat port was quite obtrusive and might cause a leak if it were knocked, but so far so good.. after a week of fairly abusive behaviour its ok.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In the 170 degree mode ( wide angle), I noticed I could see the flat port lense and a bit of image distortion at the periphery which annoyed me. I think you need to stick to 120 degrees underwater. Maybe blue water diving would be ok but in green/dark. I also found my primary light caught the edge of the port and caused a flare mark.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Battery life is quite impressive, I did 6 cold water dives without changing the battery, I only changed it after that to be safe at 40% ish. This is one thing I had heard about the GoPro 3 that sort of put me off.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Although I bought mine 3-4 months after the firmware upgrade, the one I purchased from the store was old firmware i.e. didn't have the underwater mode. Its not big deal but just don't get disappointed the mode is not there initially, download and install, easy.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Accessories, well there not as prevalent as the GoPro fittings but it does have a standard tripod mount which opens the door to quite a bit. I used the supplied quick release mounts to attach to the goodman handle.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">GoPro humidity pads fit inside fine. In fact there seems to be quite a bit of space around the camera ( 2mm ;).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The wireless feature is a novelty, I don't think I will ever use it, there is a version without wifi which is cheaper so that might be a better bet. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Price, i like, it cost me £199 from John Lewis and another £35 for the door pack. Given the environment you takes these devices into and their propensity to flood ever so often, I'm not laying out mega bucks...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I've put some sample videos on my Youtube channel..</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/johnohuk2">http://www.youtube.com/user/johnohuk2</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Or </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Vimeo </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://vimeo.com/user19212157">https://vimeo.com/user19212157</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A new firmware version was released in June which I didn't notice, just loaded it and have yet to get it wet, new version is v3.0.0, previously I was running v2.0.0.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b><u>Update:</u></b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Just got back from a Red Sea liveaboard..... Northern Wrecks and Reefs... Dual light worked a treat, really brings out the colours on the reef... limited range mind, maybe 1m max in good conditions...but definitely worth it because just a little light is needed to turn from a dull blue into something else..</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://vimeo.com/90581529">https://vimeo.com/90581529</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I'll try to put some of the wreck penetration videos up soon...</span><br />
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JohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8278117808961939973.post-3179489682488678752013-06-25T22:42:00.001+01:002013-06-25T22:46:19.773+01:00Greisinger GOX 100 - Oxygen Analyser for DivingFound this on the internet and decided to give it a go... Its significantly cheaper that the most common analyser ( Analox O2EII Nitrox Analyser ) and only slightly more expensive that a homebrew kit so it seemed a good idea.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9h7vpCq2x0s/UcoMMwLG7oI/AAAAAAAABIo/r8U5GpzfOEs/s1600/IMG_20130623_162107.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9h7vpCq2x0s/UcoMMwLG7oI/AAAAAAAABIo/r8U5GpzfOEs/s320/IMG_20130623_162107.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<h1 class="detail" id="mc_info_123101" style="background-color: white; border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 1.7em; font-weight: normal; line-height: 21px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">
<a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=8278117808961939973" name="head_detail" style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Greisinger GOX 100 T Oxygen Meter with Sensor</a></h1>
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<a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=8278117808961939973" name="head_detail" style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><br /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=8278117808961939973" name="head_detail" style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Purchased from Conrad Electronics for £107.99</a></div>
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<a href="http://www.conrad-uk.com/ce/en/product/123101/Greisinger-GOX-100-T-Oxygen-Meter-with-Sensor;jsessionid=C4DC8C11AFDF0572A502F2591991F935.ASTPCEN24">http://www.conrad-uk.com/ce/en/product/123101/Greisinger-GOX-100-T-Oxygen-Meter-with-Sensor;jsessionid=C4DC8C11AFDF0572A502F2591991F935.ASTPCEN24</a></div>
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<a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=8278117808961939973" name="head_detail" style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><br /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=8278117808961939973" name="head_detail" style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">I also purchased the instrument case they sell as an accessory. It comes with uncut foam insert which you can cut the outline of the sensor/meter with a stanley knife. Cut and compress the foam within the area to enclose the pieces.</a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-n-O2ONTxbEY/UcoL0UFCIiI/AAAAAAAABIQ/xOZk5_y843E/s1600/IMG_20130623_162030.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-n-O2ONTxbEY/UcoL0UFCIiI/AAAAAAAABIQ/xOZk5_y843E/s320/IMG_20130623_162030.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QMeo5YYyyjs/UcoOfKmSBaI/AAAAAAAABKQ/GnBOcH_1Pp4/s1600/IMG_20130623_162348.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QMeo5YYyyjs/UcoOfKmSBaI/AAAAAAAABKQ/GnBOcH_1Pp4/s320/IMG_20130623_162348.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PlVytgOsxOo/UcoMD5E34VI/AAAAAAAABIc/Gp0qzXZWrcM/s1600/IMG_20130623_162048.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PlVytgOsxOo/UcoMD5E34VI/AAAAAAAABIc/Gp0qzXZWrcM/s320/IMG_20130623_162048.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Details from their website...</div>
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<div id="mc_info_123101_produktbezeichnung" style="background-color: white; border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px; margin-bottom: 25px !important; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding: 0px;">
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<strong style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Greisinger GOX 100 T Oxygen Meter with Sensor</strong></div>
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<strong style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Highlights & details</strong></div>
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<li style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; list-style-image: initial; list-style-position: initial; list-style-type: square; margin: 0px 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px;">For gaseous oxygen</li>
<li style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; list-style-image: initial; list-style-position: initial; list-style-type: square; margin: 0px 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px;">Automatic temperature compensation for greater accuracy</li>
<li style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; list-style-image: initial; list-style-position: initial; list-style-type: square; margin: 0px 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px;">Inc. thermometer</li>
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<strong style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Description</strong></div>
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This compact Greisinger GOX 100 T Oxygen Meter with Sensor measures the oxygen concentration in gas mixtures and air. For the best the results the actual measurement of the oxygen takes place at the tip of the included sensor. The unique design of the sensor the device has to be calibrated at regular intervals to obtain accurate measuring values. When the sensor is used up, the device will detect this at calibration and the sensor element hast to be replaced before the start of the next measurement.<br />
By means of the integrated hold-function, the MOD-Display (max. operating depth) and a specialized sensor, it is optimized for the testing of diving gas mixtures (such as NITROX).</div>
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<strong style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Features</strong></div>
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<li style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; list-style-image: initial; list-style-position: initial; list-style-type: square; margin: 0px 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px;">Min, max value storage</li>
<li style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; list-style-image: initial; list-style-position: initial; list-style-type: square; margin: 0px 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px;">Cheap sensor element very easy to replace</li>
<li style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; list-style-image: initial; list-style-position: initial; list-style-type: square; margin: 0px 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px;">Sensor evaluation for assessment of the sensor status</li>
<li style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; list-style-image: initial; list-style-position: initial; list-style-type: square; margin: 0px 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px;">Simplest calibration on air</li>
<li style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; list-style-image: initial; list-style-position: initial; list-style-type: square; margin: 0px 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px;">Configurable automatic OFF function</li>
<li style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; list-style-image: initial; list-style-position: initial; list-style-type: square; margin: 0px 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px;">MOD-display (indicates the maximum permitted depth with the measured oxygen mixture).</li>
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<strong style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Included in delivery</strong></div>
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<li style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; list-style-image: initial; list-style-position: initial; list-style-type: square; margin: 0px 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px;">Sensor with 1 m Cable</li>
<li style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; list-style-image: initial; list-style-position: initial; list-style-type: square; margin: 0px 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px;">Hose adaptor</li>
<li style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; list-style-image: initial; list-style-position: initial; list-style-type: square; margin: 0px 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px;">T-item</li>
<li style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; list-style-image: initial; list-style-position: initial; list-style-type: square; margin: 0px 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px;">1battery (9V block)</li>
<li style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; list-style-image: initial; list-style-position: initial; list-style-type: square; margin: 0px 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px;">O<sub style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">2</sub> oxygen sensor GOEL 370</li>
<li style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; list-style-image: initial; list-style-position: initial; list-style-type: square; margin: 0px 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px;">User manual.</li>
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<strong style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">The device corresponds to the essential protection ratings established in the Regulations of the Council for the Approximation of Legislation for the member countries regarding electromagnetic compatibility (2004/108/EG). Device meets EN 61326-1:2006, Additional fault: <1%.</strong></div>
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<strong style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Technical data</strong></div>
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; width: 748px;"><tbody style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">
<tr style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><th style="border-bottom-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-bottom-style: solid; border-collapse: collapse; border-right-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-right-style: solid; border-spacing: 0px; border-top-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-top-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 0px; font-size: 13px; font-weight: normal; line-height: 15px; margin: 0px; padding: 5px 5px 5px 0px; width: 220px;">Accuracy</th><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-bottom-style: solid; border-collapse: collapse; border-left-color: rgb(188, 188, 188); border-left-style: solid; border-spacing: 0px; border-top-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-top-style: solid; border-width: 1px 0px 1px 1px; font-size: 13px; line-height: 15px; margin: 0px; padding: 4px 9px; vertical-align: top;">± 0.1 % O<sub style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">2</sub> (± 1 Digt)</td></tr>
<tr style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><th style="border-bottom-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-bottom-style: solid; border-collapse: collapse; border-right-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-right-style: solid; border-spacing: 0px; border-top-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-top-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 0px; font-size: 13px; font-weight: normal; line-height: 15px; margin: 0px; padding: 5px 5px 5px 0px; width: 220px;">Weight</th><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-bottom-style: solid; border-collapse: collapse; border-left-color: rgb(188, 188, 188); border-left-style: solid; border-spacing: 0px; border-top-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-top-style: solid; border-width: 1px 0px 1px 1px; font-size: 13px; line-height: 15px; margin: 0px; padding: 4px 9px; vertical-align: top;">150 g</td></tr>
<tr style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><th style="border-bottom-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-bottom-style: solid; border-collapse: collapse; border-right-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-right-style: solid; border-spacing: 0px; border-top-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-top-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 0px; font-size: 13px; font-weight: normal; line-height: 15px; margin: 0px; padding: 5px 5px 5px 0px; width: 220px;">Power supply</th><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-bottom-style: solid; border-collapse: collapse; border-left-color: rgb(188, 188, 188); border-left-style: solid; border-spacing: 0px; border-top-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-top-style: solid; border-width: 1px 0px 1px 1px; font-size: 13px; line-height: 15px; margin: 0px; padding: 4px 9px; vertical-align: top;">9 V battery pack</td></tr>
<tr style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><th style="border-bottom-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-bottom-style: solid; border-collapse: collapse; border-right-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-right-style: solid; border-spacing: 0px; border-top-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-top-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 0px; font-size: 13px; font-weight: normal; line-height: 15px; margin: 0px; padding: 5px 5px 5px 0px; width: 220px;">Resolution</th><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-bottom-style: solid; border-collapse: collapse; border-left-color: rgb(188, 188, 188); border-left-style: solid; border-spacing: 0px; border-top-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-top-style: solid; border-width: 1px 0px 1px 1px; font-size: 13px; line-height: 15px; margin: 0px; padding: 4px 9px; vertical-align: top;">0.1 % O<sub style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">2</sub></td></tr>
<tr style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><th style="border-bottom-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-bottom-style: solid; border-collapse: collapse; border-right-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-right-style: solid; border-spacing: 0px; border-top-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-top-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 0px; font-size: 13px; font-weight: normal; line-height: 15px; margin: 0px; padding: 5px 5px 5px 0px; width: 220px;">Measurement range</th><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-bottom-style: solid; border-collapse: collapse; border-left-color: rgb(188, 188, 188); border-left-style: solid; border-spacing: 0px; border-top-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-top-style: solid; border-width: 1px 0px 1px 1px; font-size: 13px; line-height: 15px; margin: 0px; padding: 4px 9px; vertical-align: top;">Oxygen concentration: 0.0 – 100.0 % O<sub style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">2</sub></td></tr>
<tr style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><th style="border-bottom-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-bottom-style: solid; border-collapse: collapse; border-right-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-right-style: solid; border-spacing: 0px; border-top-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-top-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 0px; font-size: 13px; font-weight: normal; line-height: 15px; margin: 0px; padding: 5px 5px 5px 0px; width: 220px;">Dimensions</th><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-bottom-style: solid; border-collapse: collapse; border-left-color: rgb(188, 188, 188); border-left-style: solid; border-spacing: 0px; border-top-color: rgb(212, 212, 212); border-top-style: solid; border-width: 1px 0px 1px 1px; font-size: 13px; line-height: 15px; margin: 0px; padding: 4px 9px; vertical-align: top;">(W x H x D) 67 x 106 x 30 mm</td></tr>
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<a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=8278117808961939973" name="head_detail" style="border-collapse: collapse; border-spacing: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">I took it on a recent diving trip and some observations.</a></div>
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I'm glad i made a handsfree bungy attachment so that I can just attach the sensor to the valve, as I've only got two hands.. </div>
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The case is not waterproof. An otterbox/Peli would be better. It survived as I was on a hardboat and there wasn't a great deal of water on the deck... but I can imagine on a Rhib or wet day it won't do unless you put in the cabin/dry bag. I just left it in my mesh bag on the deck.<br />
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A nice feature was a hold reading button and a MOD function, basically tells you the MOD of the current reading.</div>
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It worked without issues and I was happy for the price..</div>
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JohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8278117808961939973.post-3171858989885155022013-05-28T21:32:00.000+01:002015-04-20T21:41:11.506+01:00Review 80M Waterproof Underwater 1800 LM CREE XM-L T6 LED Diving Flashlight Torch Purchased one of these off ebay...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCs8BMqhy78kZTCG__eb1d-7hXPsJmu7u4xkHs48kIQDgCaOGokapl7cXGVZe1waK7uoTZu7Jqsk7dv5NhiG8rZ3BMxG07FCshVArwFI1pK_14AEu2uOMTdpjDslqAHsWT-MMFqX64jG4/s1600/cree+dive+torch.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCs8BMqhy78kZTCG__eb1d-7hXPsJmu7u4xkHs48kIQDgCaOGokapl7cXGVZe1waK7uoTZu7Jqsk7dv5NhiG8rZ3BMxG07FCshVArwFI1pK_14AEu2uOMTdpjDslqAHsWT-MMFqX64jG4/s640/cree+dive+torch.JPG" height="257" width="640" /></a></div>
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Put a bolt snap on it and went diving... took it to 24m (75ft)., 8 degrees C ( 46 F)..<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX2X5zbs1IPyLA_dnAPd8pD5-XKTylt5iDJgStWl6JCe-oXULjNtQB4sdExKrjDLv6Jsvmq62G7TTNfU30l-XAcn5u52gJdg5hJ0tGRHgpxfR0uvlfJ3_U-5Z4np7jyK5-xaMpbmybuMY/s1600/IMG_20130528_205015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX2X5zbs1IPyLA_dnAPd8pD5-XKTylt5iDJgStWl6JCe-oXULjNtQB4sdExKrjDLv6Jsvmq62G7TTNfU30l-XAcn5u52gJdg5hJ0tGRHgpxfR0uvlfJ3_U-5Z4np7jyK5-xaMpbmybuMY/s320/IMG_20130528_205015.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Results, well it worked during the dive no problems... nice tight beam and about 20-30% brighter that my old UK Light Canon 10W HID. Going by previous lights it looks like ~900 lumens?</div>
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However, after the first dive, it had drops of water in the lense... groan...</div>
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Stripped it down, left it to dry, greased up the lense O-ring ( which was bone dry) and went back.. this time no problems... 24m depth again. </div>
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One bonus of the strip down is that i've lost the SOS mode. The pill needs to be rotated to match the magnets in the outside ring...I switched the mode selector ring to ON and then rotated the pill till the light came on, then closed it up..</div>
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Here are some pictures...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-LfTrzhtfWxkDijp-UCVfJiFG8l8KwTyAjsuL8WkbyovFStm6_YNEE_i9kMuVz7mVJFW-gr2Nd9QKIdZfgz-Wu7q6pmuQsU0yhzCn1sTeF9TKOBOIPHPwpOws9CwqO0DUQy1y9nSnLLU/s1600/IMG_20130528_205317.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-LfTrzhtfWxkDijp-UCVfJiFG8l8KwTyAjsuL8WkbyovFStm6_YNEE_i9kMuVz7mVJFW-gr2Nd9QKIdZfgz-Wu7q6pmuQsU0yhzCn1sTeF9TKOBOIPHPwpOws9CwqO0DUQy1y9nSnLLU/s320/IMG_20130528_205317.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Some closeups of the o-ring sitting on a "ledge".</div>
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The lense sits on the o-ring.</div>
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I'm sort of happy with it, I'll go through all the O-rings and grease up, making sure all the pieces are tight. Also make sure all the o-ring surfaces and threads are free from loose metal/dirt etc...</div>
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Some more pictures...</div>
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Some further observations...</div>
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The multimode isn't as bad a I first thought.... you don't have to cycle through all the modes every time you switch it on and off.. For instance, if you have it on Full power and just want to turn it off and on again and retain the full power mode, just wait 5 seconds before turning it back on again. If you do it more quickly, it will change mode and go down to the next lower power setting. </div>
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I measured the current on full power, it takes 2.2A with a fresh battery. So at 4.2V its 9.24 Watts.</div>
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I had a look at the control board PCB with a view to remove the modes but I didn't understand it enough to come up with a solution. It has one main controller chip ( 8 pin ) in the centre and 2 hall effect sensors on the perimeter of the PCB. It also has space/PCB tracks for 2 more, these are not populated.</div>
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So, 4 sensors, each one has a track going into the controller, with +Vcc and GND, leaves two for outputs..</div>
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None of the chips had identification numbers on.</div>
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There is another 4 pin power device but without taking the PCB out of the base I can't see it or probe it... </div>
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I suppose I could remove the controller chip and put in an ATTiny chip of my own but as i'm going diving next week I want it to be in one piece.</div>
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A bit more..</div>
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Take care to hold the body of the torch and not the head when you take off the end cap changing batteries OR changing mode/On/Off underwater, the bezel/body connection are too easily loosened and you could create a leak.</div>
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Update...</div>
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After 14 dives ranging from 41m to 17m in 8 degrees water, I managed to unscrew the bezels by accident and both flooded. Again, dry out and tighten and back to normal. A suggested solution to this was to use a thread lock type product, so i've ordered some Loctite 243 and will see how that goes..</div>
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Another Update..</div>
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Applied the thread lock ( Loctite 243) to the bezel threads on the head, like so... Tightened the head up. Dived again and didn't flood but only 9m depth dive.... I'll update some more when I get more depth.</div>
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Unscrewing it after the dive was not an issue, maybe put a little more on that the small blob in the photo. < Yep works..>...</div>
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£3.50 from Amazon.</div>
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Update : Bought a third one for the video light project, noticed a slightly different label on the side and it didn't come with the inner plastic battery adapter, otherwise it looks exactly the same. Need to verify its ok with another dive.</div>
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Another Update:</div>
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Dived to 4m so suspect its ok. I've not got a deeper dive for a month so will feedback then. Tried to disassemble it and noticed: </div>
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The plastic insert/battery adapter was not there, a 16850 battery will still work it just flops about a bit when your tightening up the end, still makes a connection. I had some plastic tubing which I cut down to the same length ( 8cm length, Outside diameter 23mm) as one of the others and it was fine.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb4mILCxuVMx4Mwug8kI94fv-_BgYiM1KheWhwl4fmvOWBqvBOusFbZSoiO8qNdD39B267qp5lPdMcqBbqFQVR-4jqKAmHZjIeOhV6tqZXmN4-umSxXXxh5cW8D8AMj6w7sDMckBFhZUw/s1600/IMG_20130816_110058.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb4mILCxuVMx4Mwug8kI94fv-_BgYiM1KheWhwl4fmvOWBqvBOusFbZSoiO8qNdD39B267qp5lPdMcqBbqFQVR-4jqKAmHZjIeOhV6tqZXmN4-umSxXXxh5cW8D8AMj6w7sDMckBFhZUw/s320/IMG_20130816_110058.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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The reflector doesn't want to come out nor the LED pcb either. A gently push didn't dislodge it, so might swap the heads around with my older ones to make another video head or give it a whack with a hammer..!</div>
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Otherwise this third one, looks ok...</div>
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Beam shot :</div>
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More shots of the body, the end cap does fit on the head unit... Not sure its water tight but does make a solid seal... Plenty of beam shots on my Vimeo channel...<a href="https://vimeo.com/user19212157">https://vimeo.com/user19212157</a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBXWlaBbeM0LhBVS_s5S3aakzONJbZBC125-bpYmVXIjXqIm4QTYwKsNWbDvzIeaI6sNR4ZIfFzRQWLuSCbPpphYARwTsaW6vBy6-VApPF0RXoFJEz18ZOJ2D6dy0oMJcgUCFLKBroS_Y/s1600/IMG_20130816_110020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="display: inline !important; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBXWlaBbeM0LhBVS_s5S3aakzONJbZBC125-bpYmVXIjXqIm4QTYwKsNWbDvzIeaI6sNR4ZIfFzRQWLuSCbPpphYARwTsaW6vBy6-VApPF0RXoFJEz18ZOJ2D6dy0oMJcgUCFLKBroS_Y/s320/IMG_20130816_110020.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Simple goodman handle for the light, found some webbing from an old dive bag, tie wrapped it on. I clip the bolt snap onto my computer bungee to keep it straight. Usually do this once i'm in the water.<br />
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<b><u>Update:</u></b><br />
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I have three of these now, 2 have glass lenses and 1 has an acrylic lense. None have flooded since I put the loctite thread lock.<br />
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1 glass lense one has done 30 dives to a max of 42m ( 137ft).<br />
Another glass one has done 12 dives to a max of 30m ( 98ft)<br />
The acrylic lense version has done 10 dives to 30m.<br />
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Run time on an Xtar 2800ma 18650 battery is around 55 mins continuous , which is two dives for me ( its not on all the time).<br />
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Two have been converted to Video lights are per my blog.<br />
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The only nasty bit is the rotating control ring, this can either go stiff OR very loose... Still works but the spring and steel ball don't like salt water. See other post on my blog for the control ring issues..<br />
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The loctite thread lock will need to be applied again soon as I can feel the bezel coming loose again on one of them.<br />
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I've not changed the original o-rings. They look awful but so far they have held out, just greased them up.<br />
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Someone noticed there was a current drain when in the off position, I checked it with a multimeter and sure enough, looks like around 50mA. I'd not noticed battery going dead when I left them in but I tend to charge them before every dive trip.<br />
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I mentioned in another post that the control ring is completely free now i.e. no notch. This mean it slips around quite a bit. The solution is to place a tight bicycle inner tube around it seems to work ok.<br />
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<b><u>Beam shots in the pool:</u></b><br />
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<br />JohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8278117808961939973.post-58396394742200411302013-05-11T17:16:00.001+01:002013-09-30T00:02:41.953+01:00Dive Light - Part #9 - Maglite - Another go and still leaks...So tried the single 3mm O-ring on the front and letting the lense rest on the head. Result was that it leaked in exactly the same way as the last time. Small drops between the lense and the drop-in. Still works but not sure for how long.<br />
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This time I got 4 dives out of it at 32m ( 105ft) max, there was a slight flicker from the light but it didn't go out...<br />
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The only other thought I have is that the leak is coming from where the body and head screw together..<br />
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So might try the liquid casket in there or a slightly bigger O-ring, I know 2.5 is too big and it has a 2mm in there at the moment...Maybe even double up on the 2mm rings..?<br />
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Some other issues, the light fell out of the clamp and I nearly lost the goodman handle.<br />
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The plastic ring with the magnet slipped off and I found it halfway down the cable.<br />
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The maglite holder actually snapped, i needed to wrap an old inner tube around the light to stop it slipping in the holder, this increased the diameter of the maglite and this put too much pressure on the maglite holder, so one side snapped off, groan.<br />
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<br />JohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8278117808961939973.post-34242250232601282312013-04-30T23:21:00.003+01:002013-05-01T23:35:09.766+01:00Dive Light - New O-rings setup, to cure small flooding..I'm thinking that, under pressure, the lense might have pushed back into the torch and let water in. I based this on the fact that my lense might of been resting on an o-ring that would have had some give in it.. like so:-<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRzOMIoad9AdmzvvO2C2nOj5pvKWRAoApN8l-6ZaZLGgWLYsmg3Ytr50kct5xDfK7Q77hEB20lcJGTu4beyY7byNKGge5s23LvqebbQhuWw8T_eU5HhgOuaja4qk7qbxVCAAiMq-yx6GA/s1600/current+section+v1.0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRzOMIoad9AdmzvvO2C2nOj5pvKWRAoApN8l-6ZaZLGgWLYsmg3Ytr50kct5xDfK7Q77hEB20lcJGTu4beyY7byNKGge5s23LvqebbQhuWw8T_eU5HhgOuaja4qk7qbxVCAAiMq-yx6GA/s320/current+section+v1.0.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Its a bit difficult to tell what's happening inside but when the o-ring behind the lense, is presented to the torch head, its lining up directly with the head wall, where it goes when I tighten it up, is anybody's guess.. But my thinking is, thats the lense is not resting on a solid/ immovable wall/surface, which could allow it to move under pressure. To make the lense rest on an immovable wall/surface, I changed the design to:<br />
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I've removed the inner o-ring to allow the lense to sit on the head wall and have increased the diameter of the outside one to 3mm..<br />
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The front 3mm O-ring might be too big as you can see quite a bit of it from the front when tightened up.<br />
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I've a 2.5mm section O-ring which I might also try at the front.<br />
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The 2.5mm O-ring is too big to go on the body, so the 2mm one is still there.<br />
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The lense is still the stepped one, but ideally, it would be better to have one without the step.<br />
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When the smaller diameter lense sits inside the head walls.. the bezel can screw further down onto the head which might also help water tightness..maybe!<br />
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This is now in testing. Overnight bucket test ok, 4m pool test ok and this weekend 30m dive.<br />
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<br />JohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8278117808961939973.post-48495624360651825332013-04-21T18:54:00.005+01:002013-04-21T19:48:32.158+01:00Disaster Strikes (almost) - Torch has water in it..Ok, first sea dive of 2013 this weekend.... 27m ( 88ft) in to the English Channel for the Broderick off Hastings... 7 degress water temp.<br />
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Torch worked fine for the duration of the dive and out performed the UK Light cannon and Green Force umbilical easily...<br />
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Used it throughout the dive with no issues but back on deck noticed a little water on the inside of the lense... Still worked but decided to stop using it there and then.<br />
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On opening it at home, the water seems to be between the drop-in and the lense... nothing behind near the electronics or cable gland...<br />
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So, it was ok at 15m in the lake... and now at 27m not so good.... I did drag it through the sand and generally not look after it... so not sure if depth or I knocked it... Even so.... not the spec I want..<br />
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<br />JohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8278117808961939973.post-18087555285621978412013-04-12T16:11:00.002+01:002013-04-13T15:00:58.601+01:00Rubbish Button SPG2 years old on a pony... can't read it for the pitting on the window and my eyesight is shot so thats something else wrong with it...<br />
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<br />JohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8278117808961939973.post-44637097305987017142013-04-05T16:53:00.000+01:002013-04-13T14:58:27.028+01:00Dive light - Part #9 - New Goodman handleUpgrade the handle from the lash it up in 5mins to something that looks a little better...<br />
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Old:<br />
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New:<br />
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Parts are:</div>
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The maglite holder is a Maglite ASXD021 Auto Clamps Skin for ASXD026E (2 Pieces). Its an American part but they crop up on ebay and Amazon in the UK. It was £7.25.</div>
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The Goodman handle was from a chap off TheDiveForum (TDF) , £16 but you can find them on ebay...</div>
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At the moment its attached with a couple of tie wrays until I can find some bolts.</div>
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The Maglite slips around in the holder preventing the users from turning the ring which has the magnet on! To get round this I double wrapped some dry suit rubber strips to grip it.. works well...</div>
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Some more pictures..</div>
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<br />JohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8278117808961939973.post-55472863915981466472013-03-16T16:45:00.000+00:002013-04-13T14:58:20.688+01:00Dive Compass - Part # 6 - Experiment with Mask Once mounted, you can truely understand how the software is working and how you as a diver might perceive the signals...<br />
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Some observations:<br />
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LEDS are blurred so close up to your face but 10mm seperation is enough to determine which one is which... just.<br />
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Might have to change the resistors on the LEDS, in low light, they may be too bright... I've put them on analog output pins so I can vary the brightness under software...but its fixed at the moment..<br />
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They need to be forward of the mask frame so as to be both seen.<br />
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Some colours are more visible that others, red and blue is good, green less so and the white ( all three colours) can look like red/green on at the same time..<br />
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The green level indicator on the LED_2 is a bit of a distraction so I might go back to a single LED.. or use it purely for the waypoint indicator..<br />
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Just thinking, I'm going to keep with this format for the moment until I can prove the in-water use of it but saw on another website ( rebreather world) the use of a small OLED display which intrigues me.... maybe mount an OLED display on the mask below the field of view and have the compass/battery at the side of the head...because the tilting of the head to check compass heading is a key feature...</div>
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<br />JohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8278117808961939973.post-20824899783606605622013-03-16T16:38:00.003+00:002013-04-14T21:34:27.301+01:00Dive Compass - Part #5 - ProgramArduino Sketch below...<br />
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Notes:<br />
Debug print statement are still active.. very useful for debugging.. but take out when happy with code.<br />
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Code starts here, COPY from after the "//" to the end..<br />
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//**************************************************************************************************************************************<br />
//<br />
// Arduino Compass HUD - Use RGB LED(s) to communicate bearing to diver and other info ( Tilt/Waypoint direction)<br />
//<br />
// Author : johnohuk@gmail.com<br />
//<br />
//<br />
// History<br />
//<br />
// 3_0 Feedback from first headmounted prototype,<br />
// 2 RGB LED Version<br />
//<br />
// Two Hall Effect sensors to increment and decrement current waypoint.<br />
//<br />
// Reference the I2C Library<br />
#include <Wire.h><br />
// Reference the HMC5883L Compass Library<br />
#include <HMC5883L.h><br />
// Reference the ADXL345 Accelerometer Library<br />
#include <ADXL345.h><br />
<br />
// Store our compass as a variable.<br />
HMC5883L compass;<br />
// Store our accelerometer as a variable.<br />
ADXL345 accel;<br />
<br />
int areConnected = 0; // Store our connection status here.<br />
<br />
// Main NSEW Bearing LED<br />
<br />
#define LED1_RED 3<br />
#define LED1_BLUE 6<br />
#define LED1_GREEN 5<br />
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// Secondary Tilt/Waypoint LED<br />
<br />
#define LED2_RED 10<br />
#define LED2_BLUE 9<br />
#define LED2_GREEN 11<br />
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// Inputs for controlling current waypoint<br />
<br />
#define HF_1 2 // Hall effect sensor #1 on Pin2<br />
#define HF_2 12 // Hall effect sensor #2 on Pin12<br />
<br />
#define delayTime 20<br />
#define BoardLed 13 // digitalWrite(BoardLed , HIGH);// HIGH/LOW only<br />
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int tilt_too_muchn; // Global flag to indicate the tilt is too much to give a valid bearing<br />
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int WayPoints[13] = {-1,56,130,180,93,45,300,55,66,130,200,230,66};<br />
int Current_WayPoint = 1;<br />
int WayPointMax = 12; // Size of the waypoint array<br />
<br />
int hallState1; // the current reading from the input pin<br />
int lasthallState1 = LOW; // the previous reading from the input pin<br />
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int hallState2; // 2nd Hall effect sensor<br />
int lasthallState2 = LOW;<br />
<br />
int hallcount1 = 0; // Current Halleffect sensor (A3144)senses two changes incoming/outgoing so need /2<br />
int hallcount2 = 0;<br />
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void setup()<br />
{<br />
pinMode(LED1_GREEN, OUTPUT); //LED #1 Primary Compass showing N,S,E and West<br />
pinMode(LED1_BLUE, OUTPUT);<br />
pinMode(LED1_RED, OUTPUT);<br />
<br />
pinMode(LED2_GREEN, OUTPUT); // LED #2 Level indicator and Waypoint indicator<br />
pinMode(LED2_BLUE, OUTPUT);<br />
pinMode(LED2_RED, OUTPUT);<br />
<br />
pinMode(HF_1, INPUT ); // Inputs to control Waypoint selection, increment and decrement pointer into Array<br />
pinMode(HF_2, INPUT );<br />
<br />
Serial.begin(9600); // Initialize the serial port.<br />
Wire.begin(); // Start the I2C interface.<br />
<br />
compass = HMC5883L(); // Construct a new HMC5883 compass.<br />
accel = ADXL345(); // Construct a new ADXL345 accelerometer.<br />
<br />
compass.EnsureConnected();<br />
accel.EnsureConnected();<br />
<br />
if(compass.IsConnected && accel.IsConnected)<br />
{<br />
areConnected = true;<br />
Serial.println("Connected to HMC5883L and ADXL345.");<br />
}<br />
else<br />
{<br />
areConnected = false;<br />
<br />
if(compass.IsConnected == 0)<br />
Serial.println("Could not connect to HMC5883L.");<br />
if(accel.IsConnected == 0)<br />
Serial.println("Could not connect to ADXL345.");<br />
<br />
digitalWrite(BoardLed , HIGH); //If connection fault then onboard green LED will stay on.<br />
}<br />
if(areConnected)<br />
{<br />
compass.SetScale(1.3); // Set the scale of the compass.<br />
compass.SetMeasurementMode(Measurement_Continuous); // Set the measurement mode to Continuous<br />
<br />
accel.SetRange(2, true); // Set the range of the accelerometer to a maximum of 2G.<br />
accel.EnableMeasurements(); // Tell the accelerometer to start taking measurements.<br />
}<br />
<br />
// Test the three colours in both LED(s), ramp up each one...<br />
<br />
for( int i = 0 ; i < 5 ; i += 1 ){<br />
<br />
analogWrite( LED1_RED, i );<br />
analogWrite( LED1_BLUE, 0 );<br />
analogWrite( LED1_GREEN, 0 );<br />
<br />
analogWrite( LED2_RED, i );<br />
analogWrite( LED2_BLUE, 0 );<br />
analogWrite( LED2_GREEN, 0 );<br />
<br />
delay( 200 );<br />
<br />
Serial.println(i);<br />
<br />
} <br />
<br />
digitalWrite(BoardLed , LOW); // Toggle the LED on the board itself to indicate progress..<br />
<br />
for( int i = 0 ; i < 5 ; i += 1 ){<br />
<br />
analogWrite( LED1_RED, 0 );<br />
analogWrite( LED1_BLUE, i );<br />
analogWrite( LED1_GREEN, 0 );<br />
<br />
analogWrite( LED2_RED, 0 );<br />
analogWrite( LED2_BLUE, i );<br />
analogWrite( LED2_GREEN, 0 ); <br />
delay( 200 );<br />
<br />
Serial.println(i);<br />
<br />
} <br />
<br />
digitalWrite(BoardLed , HIGH);<br />
<br />
for( int i = 0 ; i < 5 ; i += 1 ){<br />
<br />
analogWrite( LED1_RED, 0 );<br />
analogWrite( LED1_BLUE, 0 );<br />
analogWrite( LED1_GREEN, i );<br />
<br />
analogWrite( LED2_RED, 0 );<br />
analogWrite( LED2_BLUE, 0 );<br />
analogWrite( LED2_GREEN, i );<br />
<br />
delay( 200 );<br />
<br />
Serial.println(i);<br />
<br />
} <br />
<br />
digitalWrite(BoardLed , LOW);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void loop()<br />
{<br />
int MaxVal = 5; //Full on LED=255, 5 = low, dont want LED to be distracting...<br />
int headingTCn=0;<br />
<br />
if(areConnected)<br />
{<br />
MagnetometerScaled magnetometerReadings = compass.ReadScaledAxis();<br />
AccelerometerScaled accelerometerReadings = accel.ReadScaledAxis();<br />
<br />
float headingNTC = CalculateHeadingNotTiltCompensated(magnetometerReadings);<br />
float headingTC = CalculateHeadingTiltCompensated(magnetometerReadings, accelerometerReadings);<br />
<br />
// Update RGB (LED1)<br />
<br />
headingTCn = int ( RadiansToDegrees(headingNTC)); //changed!!<br />
//Serial.println(headingTCn);<br />
<br />
if (tilt_too_muchn == 1 )<br />
{<br />
Serial.println("Tilted too far");<br />
analogWrite( LED1_RED, 0 );<br />
analogWrite( LED1_BLUE, 0 );<br />
analogWrite( LED1_GREEN, 0 );<br />
<br />
analogWrite( LED2_GREEN, 0 ); // Clear 2nd LED2 which indicates headset is level... so all u need is to keep that orientation and twist head to get a bearing..<br />
<br />
}<br />
else if ( headingTCn>355 || headingTCn <05 )<br />
{ <br />
Serial.println("North");<br />
<br />
analogWrite( LED1_RED, 0 );<br />
analogWrite( LED1_BLUE, 0 );<br />
analogWrite( LED1_GREEN, MaxVal );<br />
}<br />
else if ( headingTCn> 84 && headingTCn <95 )<br />
{<br />
Serial.println("EAST");<br />
<br />
analogWrite( LED1_RED, 0 );<br />
analogWrite( LED1_BLUE, MaxVal );<br />
analogWrite( LED1_GREEN, 0 );<br />
}<br />
else if ( headingTCn> 174 && headingTCn <185 ) <br />
{<br />
Serial.println("SOUTH");<br />
<br />
analogWrite( LED1_RED, MaxVal );<br />
analogWrite( LED1_BLUE, MaxVal );<br />
analogWrite( LED1_GREEN, MaxVal );<br />
}<br />
else if ( headingTCn> 264 && headingTCn <275 ) <br />
{<br />
Serial.println("WEST");<br />
<br />
analogWrite( LED1_RED, MaxVal );<br />
analogWrite( LED1_BLUE, 0 );<br />
analogWrite( LED1_GREEN, 0 );<br />
}<br />
else<br />
{<br />
<br />
// For any heading outside the above parameters<br />
<br />
analogWrite( LED1_RED, 0 );<br />
analogWrite( LED1_BLUE, 0 );<br />
analogWrite( LED1_GREEN, 0 );<br />
} <br />
<br />
//Waypoint functionallity & Level indicator - communicated through LED2 Blue..<br />
<br />
// Sense Inputs<br />
<br />
hallState1 = digitalRead(HF_1);<br />
hallState2 = digitalRead(HF_2);<br />
<br />
Serial.print("debug - Hallstate 1 & 2, Waypoint Bearing and Index : ");<br />
Serial.print(hallState1); <br />
Serial.print(" ");<br />
Serial.print(hallState2);<br />
Serial.print(" ");<br />
Serial.print(WayPoints[Current_WayPoint]);<br />
Serial.print(" ");<br />
Serial.print(Current_WayPoint); <br />
Serial.println("");<br />
<br />
if (hallState1 != lasthallState1)<br />
{<br />
hallcount1 = hallcount1 +1;<br />
lasthallState1 = hallState1;<br />
}<br />
<br />
if (hallState2 != lasthallState2)<br />
{<br />
hallcount2 = hallcount2 +1;<br />
lasthallState2 = hallState2;<br />
}<br />
<br />
if ( hallcount1 == 2 )<br />
{<br />
if (Current_WayPoint<WayPointMax)<br />
{<br />
Current_WayPoint = Current_WayPoint + 1 ;<br />
}<br />
<br />
signal_led( Current_WayPoint); // Flash LED_2 Red the count<br />
<br />
hallcount1 = 0;<br />
}<br />
if ( hallcount2 == 2 )<br />
{<br />
if (Current_WayPoint>1)<br />
{<br />
Current_WayPoint = Current_WayPoint - 1 ;<br />
}<br />
<br />
signal_led( Current_WayPoint); // Flash LED_2 Red the count<br />
<br />
hallcount2 = 0;<br />
} <br />
<br />
// Level indicator & Waypoint display<br />
<br />
if (tilt_too_muchn == 0 )<br />
{<br />
if ( headingTCn> (WayPoints[Current_WayPoint] -5 )&& headingTCn< (WayPoints[Current_WayPoint] +5 ) )<br />
{<br />
analogWrite( LED2_GREEN, 0 ); <br />
analogWrite( LED2_BLUE, MaxVal ); <br />
Serial.println("On Waypoint Bearing"); <br />
}<br />
else<br />
{<br />
analogWrite( LED2_BLUE, 0 ); <br />
analogWrite( LED2_GREEN, MaxVal ); // Set 2nd LED2 to green to indicate headset is level... so all u need is to keep that orientation and twist head to get a bearing..<br />
Serial.println("Level but NO Waypoint Bearing");<br />
} <br />
}<br />
}<br />
}<br />
void signal_led ( int pulse_count )<br />
{<br />
<br />
// Pulse LED_2 Red using the pulse_count to indicate to user which waypoint is currently active<br />
<br />
analogWrite( LED2_BLUE, 0 );<br />
analogWrite( LED2_GREEN, 0 );<br />
analogWrite( LED2_RED, 0 );<br />
<br />
delay( 2000 );<br />
<br />
for( int i = 1 ; i <= pulse_count ; i += 1 )<br />
{<br />
<br />
analogWrite( LED2_RED, 1 );<br />
<br />
delay( 1000 );<br />
<br />
analogWrite( LED2_RED, 0 );<br />
<br />
delay( 1000 ); <br />
} <br />
<br />
analogWrite( LED2_RED, 0 );<br />
<br />
delay( 2000 );<br />
}<br />
<br />
float CalculateHeadingTiltCompensated(MagnetometerScaled mag, AccelerometerScaled acc)<br />
{<br />
// We are swapping the accelerometers axis as they are opposite to the compass the way we have them mounted.<br />
// We are swapping the signs axis as they are opposite.<br />
// Configure this for your setup.<br />
<br />
float accX = -acc.YAxis;<br />
float accY = -acc.XAxis;<br />
<br />
<br />
// float accY = -acc.YAxis;<br />
// float accX = -acc.XAxis;<br />
<br />
float rollRadians = asin(accY);<br />
float pitchRadians = asin(accX);<br />
<br />
// We cannot correct for tilt over 40 degrees with this algorthem, if the board is tilted as such, return 0.<br />
<br />
// if(rollRadians > 0.78 || rollRadians < -0.78 || pitchRadians > 0.78 || pitchRadians < -0.78) //44 degress<br />
if(rollRadians > 0.175 || rollRadians < -0.175 || pitchRadians > 0.175 || pitchRadians < -0.175) //10 degrees<br />
{<br />
tilt_too_muchn = 1;<br />
return 0;<br />
}<br />
else<br />
{<br />
tilt_too_muchn = 0;<br />
}<br />
<br />
// Some of these are used twice, so rather than computing them twice in the algorithem we precompute them before hand.<br />
float cosRoll = cos(rollRadians);<br />
float sinRoll = sin(rollRadians); <br />
float cosPitch = cos(pitchRadians);<br />
float sinPitch = sin(pitchRadians);<br />
<br />
// The tilt compensation algorithem.<br />
float Xh = mag.XAxis * cosPitch + mag.ZAxis * sinPitch;<br />
float Yh = mag.XAxis * sinRoll * sinPitch + mag.YAxis * cosRoll - mag.ZAxis * sinRoll * cosPitch;<br />
<br />
float heading = atan2(Yh, Xh);<br />
<br />
return heading;<br />
}<br />
<br />
float CalculateHeadingNotTiltCompensated(MagnetometerScaled mag)<br />
{<br />
// Calculate heading when the magnetometer is level, then correct for signs of axis.<br />
float heading = atan2(mag.YAxis, mag.XAxis);<br />
return heading;<br />
}<br />
<br />
float RadiansToDegrees(float rads)<br />
{<br />
// Correct for when signs are reversed.<br />
if(rads < 0)<br />
rads += 2*PI;<br />
<br />
// Check for wrap due to addition of declination.<br />
if(rads > 2*PI)<br />
rads -= 2*PI;<br />
<br />
// Convert radians to degrees for readability.<br />
float heading = rads * 180/PI;<br />
<br />
return heading;<br />
}<br />
<br />
void Output(float headingNTC, float headingTC)<br />
{<br />
Serial.print("Heading (Not Compensated): ");<br />
Serial.print(RadiansToDegrees(headingNTC));<br />
Serial.print("\tHeading (Tilt Compensated): "); <br />
Serial.println(RadiansToDegrees(headingTC));<br />
}<br />
<br />JohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8278117808961939973.post-15843854909837396332013-03-16T16:38:00.002+00:002013-04-14T21:34:04.392+01:00Dive Compass - Part #4 - Circuit Latest circuit..... Created in TinyCad.<br />
<br />
NB Link on ProMini board has been broken to make it run its regulation/output at 3.3v, same on the FTDI usb board..<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZl3hbFqSYo2GUxJPr0XgADnhDruocEpJF3jgPua4h8ODJTVPfvcvmQCgMLVbe-278Eik2DlIp30itr4twqEGVgpQ5Gb5FaiirmEfJH-fcMfxcU0-VhtKG7GCFBZln7ZJDpXc_Vvlhzwg/s1600/HUD_2LED_WAY_v1.2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="451" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZl3hbFqSYo2GUxJPr0XgADnhDruocEpJF3jgPua4h8ODJTVPfvcvmQCgMLVbe-278Eik2DlIp30itr4twqEGVgpQ5Gb5FaiirmEfJH-fcMfxcU0-VhtKG7GCFBZln7ZJDpXc_Vvlhzwg/s640/HUD_2LED_WAY_v1.2.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />JohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8278117808961939973.post-84449370788445050452013-03-16T16:38:00.001+00:002013-04-13T14:58:01.427+01:00Dive Compass - Part #3 - New board...After the first prototype I added the two hall effects sensors as a way of controlling the current active way points and a second RGB LED for showing extra information...<br />
<br />
So it started out as this... You really have to prototype on a breadboard, its so much easier...<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxn6__OSCWtmBu3hMPKkggT3zQMflX8vYb2u_hrR36mFLBxgkgQIi9eYJ3VEWy9cUVqt2OKXX0Ms7z4IFGwkgduan31iC1PdnsjU3PrRkTXWMaCzNFWNau-MGCYnuIh3sXcGKP89YtOQs/s1600/IMG_20130203_182636.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxn6__OSCWtmBu3hMPKkggT3zQMflX8vYb2u_hrR36mFLBxgkgQIi9eYJ3VEWy9cUVqt2OKXX0Ms7z4IFGwkgduan31iC1PdnsjU3PrRkTXWMaCzNFWNau-MGCYnuIh3sXcGKP89YtOQs/s320/IMG_20130203_182636.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Then moving to Vero board...<br />
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Break in copper strips made down the middle...</div>
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<br />
Completed board..<br />
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Both RGB LEDs are on the underside because I was running out of space topside..</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlSh9V_5fR-vbzAkN97kyV3KLFr3I0ihsr93u7qjNIGUMuwS6jP0pw6Hxuoi2PSyRilfLZ_H1NRTtnF5SIEuwy4JIFdLtsVJkpSOkO-KXsZ45P7Tl74Hu6V5m6WxOaQyYjweXB648cvV0/s1600/IMG_20130316_125131.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlSh9V_5fR-vbzAkN97kyV3KLFr3I0ihsr93u7qjNIGUMuwS6jP0pw6Hxuoi2PSyRilfLZ_H1NRTtnF5SIEuwy4JIFdLtsVJkpSOkO-KXsZ45P7Tl74Hu6V5m6WxOaQyYjweXB648cvV0/s320/IMG_20130316_125131.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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You can see them a bit better from this view..</div>
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<br />
And here.... you can also one of the hall effect devices, they are place at the edge of the board to sense the magnetic field outside the housing. The second one is at the other end of the board to make them more easily distinguished.<br />
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Back in the tube, with battery and mounted on a mask. This prototype needs to go quite forward for the diver to be able to see the LEDs. Its quite fiddly trying to mount a cylinder on a flimsy bit of rubber mask strap...But will do for now...</div>
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<br />JohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8278117808961939973.post-84660783247806251482013-03-16T16:38:00.000+00:002013-04-13T14:57:55.947+01:00HUD Compass - Part #2 - Parts list<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Purchased from ebay </span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #333333;">Pro Mini Enhancement (3.3V/5V adjustable)/16MHz MEGA168 (Arduino-compatible) </span><span style="color: #333333; white-space: nowrap;">US $9.30</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">To program it : -</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #333333;">FTDI Basic 6 PIN 3.3/5V For Arduino(Free USB Cable), </span><span style="color: #333333; white-space: nowrap;">US $6.90</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Triple Axis Accelerometer ADXL345</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">HMC5883 Module Three-Axis Digital Compass</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A3144 A3144E OH3144E Hall Effect Sensor, two of.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Trebuchet, 'Trebuchet MS';">5mm </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Trebuchet, 'Trebuchet MS';">RGB LED Diffused Arduino (Red Green Blue in one LED) Shared Cathode</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, two of.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet, Trebuchet MS;">Resistors :- Four 220 Ohms, two 8.8k and two 11K Ohms.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Trebuchet, 'Trebuchet MS';"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Trebuchet, Trebuchet MS;">Test bed was :-</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Lucida Sans', Lucida, Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Lucida Sans', Lucida, Verdana, sans-serif;">Arduino Uno</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Lucida Sans', Lucida, Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Trebuchet, 'Trebuchet MS';">ARDUINO UNO Proto Shield + Breadboard</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">And for further testing ... you really need a larger breadboard ... its so much easier..</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16px; text-decoration: initial;"><a class="vip" href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/830-Points-Tie-points-Solderless-Breadboard-Circuit-Bread-Board-/390453359579?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item5ae8d573db" itemprop="name" style="background-color: white; line-height: 16px; text-decoration: initial;" title="830 Points Tie-points Solderless Breadboard Circuit Bread Board">830 Points Tie-points Solderless Breadboard Circuit Bread Board</a></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Test waterproof container is like my dive lights but specifically:-</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">21mm solid Rubber Stopper (rubber bung) for each end.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">25mm x 2mm CLEAR Acrylic Perspex Plastic TUBE Pipe 1M.</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Trebuchet, 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 18px; font-weight: bold;"><br /></span>JohnohUKhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09500074383053235941noreply@blogger.com0