I'm following this thread as a lot of the hard work has already been done...
Here goes then:
This leaves the glass lense jammed in with an o-ring across the top. I used my nails to pluck the o-ring out.
The lense fell out with a little vigorous banging of the light head onto the floor. The LED module can then be pushed from the inside of the lighthead and it just falls out.
There is another smaller o-ring inside the light head, the glass sits on this and hence there is an o-ring above and below. You can easily miss this lower o-ring. I've left it in-situe as I'm not sure I can get it back in again.
Here is a top view of the LED module, the spring is in the centre and the hall effect sensor sits in a small groove in the metal casing. Interestingly, there is only one sensor while the slider knob, is pushed forward to make the light intensity increases.
My only thought is that the magnet(s) in the slider has some sort of coding/positioning inside to indicate position on the length of the slide? Its seem to increase the light output based on the strength of the magnetic field, as you slide the magnet along it gets closer to the hall effect switch. Feels like 10 increments to full power?
There is a small knurled ring to keep the Slider magnet in place, this can be unscrewed enough to let the magnet come out. Might be tricky putting in back in.
The Light steps through 7-8 power steps as you push the slider forward.
To Disassemble the LED module, push a screw driver in the small slot opposite the hall effect sensor.
The reflector piece for the LED module can be detached by unscrewing it from within the LED module.
Once you have disconnected the reflector module, the LEDs are visible. These seem to be stuck to a washer liberally coated in heatsink compound.
I measured 2.26A on full power at the tail.
Alignment of the magnet slider and the hall effect switch is done by the LED module only fitting in two ways and its always aligned correctly, there are two notches on the module to align it.
The Magnet slider switch can be removed by unscrewing the knurled ring, pushing it back over the o-ring a little and pulling the slider out.
This is the underside of the switch, its got a small rubber insert which gives it the resistance when you push it back and forth. After a while I found the switch to stick, put some silicon grease in the slot, this seems to sort it.
Initial test show:-
On TrustFire 2500mAh batteries from Dealxtreme, the light lasted ~36 mins...
On Xtar 2600mAh batteries from Amazon, the light lasted ~52 mins.
The lights don't gradually go out, they go off immediately.
The Trustfire are not 2500mAh, suspect they are a lot lower...
Need to double check all these time.. with another run...
I use my test rig here :- http://johnohuk.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Torch%20burn%20time
Note the torch and sensor barely fit in the bucket.
Dived this weekend and noticed that the slider switch is impossible to feel in a pair of 7mm mitts, you just can't feel the knob, just have to rotate the light making the motion and hoping it engages and turns off.
With the reflector in, its quite a floody light but because of its overall power it does throw a lot more that my other Chinese torch.
Pool shots of this triple XML light ( on left ) and the single version ( on right) with reflectors still in...
Single XML, much tighter beam below...
Single XML again..
Triple XML, less defined spot but much brighter..
All shots on manual 1/80 sec , f2.8, 1000 ISO, Canon S95 with Inon UWL-H100, FOV: 100.8° underwater.
Took it diving last week to 29m ( 95ft) and it was fine, vis was around 1-2m and it was dark, I actually prefered this light to my other Chinese single XML light.. The wider beam was actually more useful at this close range, wasn't much point have a long throw narrow beam.. Only issue for me is you need true >2600mA batteries to get an hour out of it ( two dives in my experience). Cheap batteries and it won't last the day..
In use at low viz... 28m..